In a video from »Altitude«, two climbing legends meet: Magnus Midtbø interviews Chris Sharma with 20 quick questions about his goals, climbing tips, the community, and his private life.
Chris Sharma has been one of the world's best sport climbers and boulderers for over 25 years. He was part of the first generation of young climbers who started their sport indoors rather than on the rock.
Sharma wrote climbing history with extreme levels of difficulty, opening legendary routes such as »Biography/Realization« (the first 9a+ in the world), »Jumbo Love« (first confirmed 9b) and repeated »La Dura Dura« (9b+). He also set new standards in deep water soloing with »Es Pontàs« on Mallorca.
goals and projects
I actually like everything about climbing. But it can get very nerdy, and that takes away some of the coolness.
Chris Sharma on the question what he doesn't like about climbing
Although he is not aiming for 8C+/V17 bouldering – "I haven't even done an 8C or V16," Sharma says when asked this question – the idea of climbing a 9c appeals to him.
»The blond could be a 9c." He speculates about his project in Oliana, Catalonia. He had already drilled the test piece in 2012, but no one has managed to climb it since then. "DNA," too, Seb Bouins 9c in Verdon appeals to the 44-year-old.
Sharma emphasizes that formal training has never been his focus – in his view, motivation and enjoyment of the sport are crucial. Discipline comes from inspiration. Yoga, meditation, and visualization help him, as does the right mental attitude.
I am proud that after 30 years I am still passionate about climbing and still highly motivated.
Chris Sharma
Personal & private life
Chris Sharma enjoys spending his private life with his family – hiking, cycling, and climbing with his children are his favorite activities. He hardly has any hobbies outside of climbing, although he recently discovered golf: "It's a good activity to do on a rest day without getting injured."
Chris became a professional athlete at just 15 years old and, looking back, says that if it weren't for climbing, he probably would have pursued a creative career. However, he still finds it difficult to imagine a life away from climbing.
It's hard to imagine what my life would be like without climbing in it.
Chris Sharma
He's also now an entrepreneur: He owns two climbing gyms in Spain and regularly organizes climbing and deep-water solo events. But no matter what career path he chose, Sharma is certain: climbing would always remain the most important thing in his life—professional or not.
You can watch the video here:
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- Chris Sharma goes swimming | Legendary DWS first ascent of Black Pearl
- Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Chris Sharma's Sleeping Lion (9b) in Siurana
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Credits: Cover image still frame from the Youtube video by Altitude