After three weeks in Flatanger, Malik Schirawski is the second German to get a flash of "Odin's Eye", an impressive 8c+ in the Hanshelleren Cave.
Flatanger is world-famous for its impressively beautiful but also particularly difficult sport climbing routes. With »Silence« climbed Adam Ondra the world's first 2017c there in 9. Also »BIG« (9c) or »Thor's Hammer« (9a+) are well-known lines in the Norwegian cave, as are the classics »Muy Verdes« (8c), »Nordic Flower« (8c) and »Odin's Eye«.
Preparation with strategy
Schirawski knew even before the trip that he wanted to attempt some flash climbs. However, that doesn't necessarily make climbing in the cave easy: Many routes run into each other or intersect, and a flash-go on one route can directly block another. So, it's important to approach things strategically. "My first two weeks here were a bit limited in what I could try because I was kind of saving everything for later," Malik explains in an interview.
When he finally attempted Muy Verdes and Nordic Flower in flash climbing, he failed due to external circumstances: in one case, wet holds, in the other, a lack of fixed anchors in the crux. After the two failed attempts, he changed his strategy.
When I make an attempt, it's not like I'm standing on the rock and thinking, 'Okay, maybe I'll have a flash today after the warm-up.' I consider the morning before whether or not to dare to attempt it.
Malik Shirawski
A flash as a team effort
On Malik's rest day, his friend Arlo redpointed Odin's Eye. Over dinner, he decided that tomorrow would be the day for the next flash attempt.
I was in such a good mood and thought to myself, 'It all feels like tomorrow is the day I should try.'
Malik describes a flash attempt as a team effort. He and Arlo have known each other for a long time and have become a good team over time. When Malik attempts a flash, he says, Arlo is usually the one who brings him the beta.
We'd already talked about the beta the night before, and Arlo has always been there for my toughest flashes over the years. Communication between us is excellent, and I have great confidence in his expertise.
Perfect conditions in the pouring rain
The next morning, however, brought a setback: It was pouring with rain. Despite this, Malik says, he remained convinced that today was the day for his flash. After four hours, the hoped-for weather window finally arrived, allowing him to access the cave.
I then arrived at the top and to my surprise the weather was better than ever: a ton of wind and everything was incredibly dry.
Since Arlo had removed the bolts from the wall after his climb, Malik asked him to put them back in. They had to borrow the bolts from another friend who was leaving that evening. This meant that once the bolts were in, Zhirawski would have no choice but to try.
For a short time I had the feeling that I didn’t know if I really wanted to give a go or if I now felt like giving a go havebecause I have integrated so many people into this project.
While Arlo clipped in his quickdraws, Malik visualized the route once again. The time before the go is perhaps the most intense part of a flash go for him. He says he tries to detach himself from the significance and the associated pressure and transform that pressure into anticipation.
The entry went well, but after a small mistake after the third free rope, he continued climbing tensely until he reached the first remaining part. A quote from Nina Caprez came to mind as he looked up: "You cannot climb with fear in your heart." The change in mindset made the decisive difference for the 20-year-old. Instead of climbing tensely, he embraced the route and found his rhythm. And from then on, the rest of the line was exactly as he had imagined.
Odin's Eye alternates between rests and challenging cruxes. This makes this route very challenging psychologically: Malik says he repeatedly had to remind himself to put the pressure aside and focus only on the next quickdraw until the rope was in the belay.
A sea of ​​rock and granite
Three months of preparation had paid off. Muy Verde and Nordic Flower were good exercises for the rock-dependent technique in Flatanger. Malik is currently working on Thor's Hammer, which he considers a strong contender for the best route in Hanshelleren Cave. Odin's Eye also impressed the 20-year-old.
But I don't know if I like the route so much because the flash worked. If I had fallen miserably on the third lizard, I don't know if I'd still say I think Odin's Eye is awesome.
You might be interested in:
- Who will be the first to crack Project Big in Flatanger?
- Dylan Chuat climbs Thor's Hammer (9a/+) in Flatanger
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Credits: Images and cover photo: Alexis Guerin