Last month we talked to Filip about his current project, his favorite line in Arco – now he has picked up Stefano Ghisolfi's endurance test piece »Erebor« (9b).
Stress, nervousness, perfectionism and some setbacks were part of this journey, but in the end every moment was worth it to experience these emotions!
Filip Schenk
Fascination Erebor
A new milestone for the South Tyrolean climber; he has now surpassed the 9a+ grade and secured his first 9b. 2024 began Gift He was tasked with designing Erebor and quickly realized that the line perfectly suited his style. In October, he told us that his project in Eremo di San Paolo, about two kilometers north of Arco, was his absolute favorite line in the region. Now he has it in the bag.
He writes that he was now quite familiar with the line from two erebor Sessions last year. The first boulder problem of the route proved to be the biggest crux for the 25-year-old. The known beta simply didn't work for him, so he had to find his own way through it. Schenk trained very specifically for the boulder sequence, which is why he completed the route much faster than originally expected and only spent four days on the wall before he was able to clip the anchor.
A King Line in the region
The dream route is known for the variety of climbing styles it combines. It features very small holds that demand immense finger strength, while simultaneously offering moves where body position is absolutely crucial. According to Schenk, the route begins with 25 incredibly difficult moves that don't give you a moment to catch your breath. Shortly before the final boulder problem, there's a section that allows for a brief rest. Focus is essential at this point.
During a break, one can, for the first time in the line, consider the possibility of failure.
Filip Schenk
Erebor was first climbed by Stefano Ghisolfi in January 2021 and initially graded 9b/+. At that time, it was the hardest route in Italy (since surpassed by Excalibur 9b+). In November 2021, Adam Ondra attempted the route and downgraded it to 9b, having found an easier solution to the upper crux. Jakob Schubert and Stefano Carnati also agreed with Ondra's assessment.
- Adam Ondra repeats Erebor (9b / +) and devalues
- Jakob Schubert repeats Erebor (9b) - one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in Italy
+ + +
Credits: Cover photo: Crimp films