The Italian climbers Pietro Vidi and Alessandro Larcher climbed the route Joy Division, (800 m, 8b) on the Qualido Wall in Val di Mello. The 20-pitch route is considered one of the most challenging multi-pitch routes in Italy.
Vidi and Larcher spent four days on the impressive granite wall, two of them in a portaledge due to the weather. Despite some wet pitches, the pair successfully redpointed the route.
Four days on the wall, two of them completely wet – we tried to climb as many wet pitches as possible and hoped for better weather in between. It was a real adventure.
Pietro Vidi
Both climbers led all pitches at grade 8 and mastered all the other pitches alternately. With the exception of the first pitch, the ascent was made without prior inspection of the line.
Larcher's Big Wall debut
For Alessandro Larcher, Joy Division was his first big-wall experience. For him, this adventure was the icing on the cake after a summer of focusing entirely on multi-pitch climbing.
"When Pietro asked me if I wanted to try Joy Division with him, I couldn't say no," Larcher says. "This route has it all: It's long, tough, and mentally challenging. I'm grateful to have been able to share this adventure with Pie."
First ascent and previous repetitions
The Joy Division route was established in 2004 by Simone Pedeferri, a local climbing legend. Since then, there have been only a few free ascents, including by James Pearson, Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher, and Jonas Schild and Thomas Schmid, who successfully repeated it earlier this year.
With the ascent of Vidi and Larcher, another strong rope team joins the list of climbers who have mastered one of the toughest routes in Val di Mello.
Facts about the route – Joy Division, , Val di Mello
- Length: 800 m
- pitches: 20
- Difficulty: up to 8b
- first ascent: Simone Pedeferri (2004)
- Free tours: including James Pearson, Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher, Jonas Schild & Thomas Schmid (2025), Pietro Vidi & Alessandro Larcher (2025)
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Credits: Cover photo: Crimp films