The German climber Roland Hemetzberger repeats Wogue (8c) in Rätikon the probably heaviest multi-pitched tour in Europe.
The route WoGü (7 SL, 8c) was set up by Beat Kammerlander in the Rätikon 1997 and waited until 2008 for a first ascent by Adam Ondra. The second ascent was achieved by Spaniard Edu Marin 2016. One week ago, Roland Hemetzberger was also allowed to enter Europe's heaviest multi-pitcher tour in his route book.
Roland Hemetzberger on the commission of WoGü
"Nalle Hukkataival asked me approximately 1.5 years ago if I would like to join WOGÜ with him - and I was on. After the second day my middle finger pulley was through - big setback for 3 months. I committed all to Nalle and belayed and supported him - but he was unlucky because of bad weather.
During my break and the following winter months, my dream to climb WOGUE grew immensely. This year I followed a straight plan and spent a lot of time on the 350m wall. The climbing is so demanding, brutally fingery and sustained.
Last Thursday it was so barely close. Three times I fell in the last 40m long 8b +, always on the last meters to the anchor - my mental batteries were so empty and I had insane cramps in my arms.
Two days after on the 30.09, I climbed in a unique flow - I sent every pitch on my first go and reached the summit at 19:00 with tears in my eyes. I coiled up the ropes and realized I climbed one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the world as well 15 minutes after, it began to rain. So there was no time gap left for another try— destiny? "
Video about the celebration of Edu Marin
The route WoGü in Rätikon
The route WoGü in the Swiss climbing area Rätikon extends over seven pitches and waits for potential users with the following difficulties: 8c, 8a, 8b +, 8b +, 8b +, 8a +, 7c +. WoGü at the seventh Kirchlispitze is one of the heaviest multi-pitcher tours in the world.
Credits: Black Diamond Equipment
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