Finger strength is a key factor in climbing success. When climbing on a rope, there is a combination of maximum and endurance exertion. You can improve your performance on the rock with the following exercises on the fingerboard.

A contribution by Paul Schall -

This training is specially designed for rope climbing and aims to improve finger strength. To do this, maximum and endurance loads are combined. The combination of the two elements improves finger strength to the effect that the fingers open less quickly in the preloaded state.

This comes close to the situation with rope climbing, when the key point is not directly on the first few meters, but can only be reached with clearly pumped forearms. In this situation, finger strength is a crucial factor.

A good substance makes it possible to give more Go's in a day.

In addition, this training improves the substance thanks to the high number of repetitions. A good substance makes it possible to give more Go's on a climbing day in the project and not to be flat after the first maximum loads.

You have to keep this in mind when training

When doing this, always make sure not to hang in your shoulder and keep the tension in your shoulder. In the following picture you can see that the shoulders are not hanging down, but are slightly pulled up.

Important: proper warm-up before finger strength training

A good, thorough warm-up is important for fingerboard training. Jump rope, shoulder exercises with the Theraband and push-ups are particularly suitable for this. In addition, several sets of pull-ups and hangs on bars of different sizes are part of the warm-up!

Make sure you are completely warm.

Warming up too briefly during hangboard training quickly leads to injuries and overuse problems such as ring ligament pain.

With these exercises you will make progress in climbing

The main training combines maximum strength and endurance slopes. First it is the turn of the maximum, then the enduring slopes. The order is important, because otherwise we won't be able to give everything or stimulate on the maximum slopes. The following exercises must all be performed with hanging fingers and after extensive warm-up.

The order is important, because otherwise we won't give our all on the maximum slopes or set any stimulus.

Depending on the strength level, alternative variants are shown for each exercise, should you not yet manage variant 1.

SätzerepsHang time / pausePause in sentenceExecution
51 (per arm)3 sec / -3 MinutesVariant 1: One-armed
Variant 2: One-armed with support (Terraband)
Variant 3: Two-armed with additional weight
31010 sec / 3 sec2 MinutesChoose the bar so that you can reach the seventh repetition extremely pumpedis
3120 sec1 minutecombination of Blocking and finger strength on the small groin:
• Block 5 ° for 120 seconds
• Block 5 ° for 90 seconds
• Block a maximum of 5 seconds
• Block 5 ° for 120 seconds
51Maximum / -3 MinutesChoose the bar so that you can at least 20 sec can hang.

You want to know more about the training?

Find more Training tips can be found here.

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Credits: Cover picture EpicTV, Text Paul Schall /