At the end of 2019, the Austrian Jakob Schubert managed the third ascent of one of the most difficult routes in the world: Perfecto Mundo (9b +) in Margalef, Spain. Now Jakob publishes a video of his ascent. You can find more details in his personal report.
A contribution by professional climber Jakob Schubert
In my diary stands for "Arrival EM Moscow", but for a few days now my world has not been bigger than my shared flat in the heart of Innsbruck. Fortunately with a large garden in which a currently highly frequented fingerboard hangs. Pyramids of ten pull-ups are far too rare in the regular training plan. Now is the perfect time for it.
Of course, the training and competition situation is currently difficult. Nobody really knows how and when it will continue. Of course, I was already looking forward to the postponed EM. It would be the dress rehearsal and therefore the only chance left Olympic combination to test. Hopefully we will soon know whether the alternative date in June actually lasts and how this can be reconciled with the Home World Cup in Innsbruck. If it is up to me, I will start at both competitions.
I still don't fall into a motivational hole. It is important to set other goals for the near future, to stay in shape and to do something for the head. During the day I work on my mobility in the garden under the supervision of my flatmates and my girlfriend. As a passionate gamer, I fine-tune my tactical moves in the evening and can share the gaming experience with my virtual teammates.
The good weather and the clear view of the mountains also arouse the hunger for rock adventures; so it's a good thing that I finally got mine Perfecto Mundo Publish video and relive those unique moments. Climbing the route was not only a physical, but also a mental fight and is definitely one of the best moments of my life so far.
“Climbing the route was not just a physical, but also a mental struggle.”Jakob Schubert
When you start a climbing trip with a specific route in mind, you enter a kind of microcosm. You only have your goal in mind, no other thoughts, you are surrounded by familiar people and you give everything to climb this one route - these are unforgettable memories and motivate me incredibly. This nerve-wracking process can also be seen in the video, which is why I like it so much. In addition to the successful Olympia-Qualification was the inspection of the "Perfecto Mundo“Certainly the highlight at the end of 2019.
Now is a good time to be aware of the positive things in our lives; to find that there are quite a few of them. Honestly, it could be a lot worse than being 'locked up' in the place where you feel comfortable - at home.
Via the Perfecto Mundo route (9b +) in Margalef
The route was developed and set up in 2009 by the US climbing legend Chris Sharma, Sharma was never able to successfully tackle the route. 2018 caught up , Alexander Megos, who shared the podium with Schubert at the last two World Championships, made the first ascent in 2018. Since then, the route has been considered one of the four most difficult in the world. With its repetition counts Jakob Schubert now to the circle of only five people who have mastered difficulty level 9b +. This circle includes next to him Adam OndraAlexander Megos Stefano Ghisolfi and Sébastien Bouin.
The Perfecto Mundo route runs through an impressive 45º overhang in the Spanish climbing hotspot Margalef. In this conglomerate area, which is about two hours' drive from Barcelona and is known for its many high-end routes, "Perfecto Mundo" is considered the most difficult. The route starts with 25 power-consuming trains before the key passage follows with a jump from a one-finger hole to a pliers handle. This is followed by persistent climbing with hardly any rest opportunities before the steep wall slopes into a slab and leads to the top.
About the professional climber Jakob Schubert
The name Jakob Schubert has stood for exclamation points in international climbing for years, both in competitions and rock climbing. The 29-year-old from Innsbruck is a 3-time world champion, 7-time overall World Cup winner in various disciplines, holds the record for most World Cup victories in a row and is a medal candidate for the Olympic debut for climbers in Tokyo 2020.
Video: Jakob Schubert inspecting Perfecto Mundo (9b +)
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Credits: Cover picture Hannes Mair