Jakob Schubert has been in the Spanish sport climbing area Siurana for a week. Now he announces the ascent of the two difficult routes King Capella (9b +) and La Capella (9b) - in a single day! Schubert devalues both routes.
To his exploit starts at Deep Water Soloing on the Spanish island of Mallorca in autumn this year Jakob Schubert similarly successful his current trip. About a week ago, Schubert met in siurana got in and got on the route pretty soon King Cappella (9b +) a.
Double success on the fourth day
However, the planning phase did not last long. On the fourth day in the route, Schubert managed to climb the line freely. A few hours later, Jakob Schubert started another extremely difficult route in the sector, La Capella (9b), and climbed this red point too.
"Two hours after the ascent of King Capella, I also scored La Capella to crown the day!"
Jakob Schubert
Joy dance by Jakob Schubert
Both routes devalued
Jakob Schubert is only the third person who was able to climb King Capella rotpunkt. The Scotsman first walked the route at the beginning of the year Will Bosi, Alexander Megos secured the first repetition in mid-November. Bosi suggested a 9b + rating for King Capella. Alexander Megos. After repeating the route, dared to comment on the level of difficulty, but indicated that he classified the route as less difficult. Jakob Schubert now finds clearer words.
"King Capella felt more like a hard 9b and La Capella definitely didn't feel more difficult to me than 9a +."
Jakob Schubert
Schubert relativizes his devaluation by stating that it was only his personal impression. In the case of King Capella in particular, however, both repeaters have put their question marks behind Will Bosi's assessment.
Also for the route La Capella, first ascended by Adam Ondra in 2011, Schubert suggests 9a +. After the first ascent, Adam Ondra wasn't sure how to rate the route - whether 9a + or 9b - but finally threw 9b into the round. Most of the repeaters adopted this degree - with the exception of Schubert.
Alexander Megos on the ascent of King Capella
- William Bosi: First ascent of King Capella (9b +)
- Alex Megos successful again in the top ninth French degree: Furia de Jabali
- Jakob Schubert climbs Deep Water Soloing Route Alasha
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Credits: Cover picture Jakob Schubert