Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats Sleeping Lion (9b)

The strong Spaniard Jorge Díaz-Rullo secures the third ascent of Sleeping Lion. Before him, only Alex Megos had managed to repeat Chris Sharma's new kingline in Siurana.

“I was finally able to make the third ascent of this fantastic line after Chris Sharma and Alex Megos,” he said happily Jorge Diaz-Rullo after his successful climb. sleeping lion had cost the 25-year-old Spaniard more tries than he originally expected.

It was very difficult to get the right day without being too tired, with good skin and good conditions here in Siurana

Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Sleeping Lion helped him get in shape and motivate him to continue working on his next projects. «At the same time, it was an important experience because while I was working on this route, I personally wasn't in my best phase. But in the end I did it.”

I am incredibly grateful for all of my friends who have supported me and made this process easier.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Sleeping Lion: hard 9b

Sleeping Lion was first climbed by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and was rated 9b+. The Californian Spaniard had been on the line for several years The pati sector in siurana worked.

It took Alex Megos just eight days before he could repeat the line. This led the 30-year-old German to rate Sleeping Lion 9b. Jorge Díaz-Rullo took some time after his climb before commenting on the level of difficulty. In the end he rated the line as a hard 9b.

Sleeping Lion is a fantastic line with incredibly explosive movements in the style of Chris Sharma

Jorge Diaz-Rullo

The 25-year-old says he had a particularly difficult time with the dynamic move at the beginning of the route. He was able to climb the rest of Sleeping Lion on the fourth day. Once he had figured out the jump, other factors such as skin, weather or fatigue prevented him from making the climb quickly. In the end, it took Jorge Díaz-Rullo 15 days to make it to the diverter without falling.

Based on the whole process and my experience at this level, I think Sleeping Lion could be a hard 9b.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo

«I have previously climbed six 9b and two 9b+ routes. That's all I can compare this line with," said the strong Spaniard. As is often the case at this level, the perceived difficulty always depends heavily on the style and morphology of each individual.

That might interest you

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Marco Zanone

News

La Sportiva Challenger 28 review: Sailcloth at full throttle

With the Challenger 28, La Sportiva is entering a category previously unknown to the brand: technical backpacks. I took it with me for five days of touring, including trips to the Arête des Cosmiques and alpine climbing.

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.

La Sportiva Challenger 28 review: Sailcloth at full throttle

With the Challenger 28, La Sportiva is entering a category previously unknown to the brand: technical backpacks. I took it with me for five days of touring, including trips to the Arête des Cosmiques and alpine climbing.

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.