Almost exactly ten years after he was able to climb his first 9b+ route with La Dura Dura, Chris Sharma strikes again: In Siurana he manages the first ascent of Sleeping Lion (9b+). With this new Kingline, the 41-year-old American puts the icing on the cake of his long climbing career.
Even after decades in the climbing business, he still belongs to the world class: the American climbing superstar, Spaniard by choice and climbing gym owner Chris Sharma has in siurana his project sleeping lion freed. The route, rated 9b+, is - if the grade is confirmed - the most difficult first ascent of the 41-year-old and one of the toughest sport climbing routes in the world.
"Sleeping Lion was more of a personal goal, to prove to myself that I could get back to that level."
Chris Sharma
Sleeping Lion (9b+): New kingline from Siurana
Sharma's new route Sleeping Lion is in the sector The pati, not far from other high-end classics such as La Rambla or La Reina Mora. The American climbing professional began to work intensively on his project in autumn 2021 (see video below), but did not manage to clip the deflector until Tuesday, March 28, 2023.
Sleeping Lion has 54 moves in total and consists of several sustained sections with poor rest points. A particularly intense section of the Mega Line is 35 moves long and must be completed non-stop, according to Sharma. You can only reach into the magnesium at three points.
Icing on Sharma's climbing career
If future repeaters confirm the proposed grade of 9b+, this would make Sleeping Lion the most difficult first ascent of Chris Sharma's entire climbing career. This is all the more impressive given that the 41-year-old has consistently been the most difficult for more than two decades Routes and Boulder first ascent and has had a significant impact on the development of climbing.
"Sleeping Lion is one of the best routes I've ever set up."
Chris Sharma
Video: Chris Sharma projects Sleeping Lion in Siurana
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Credits: Cover picture EpicTV Spain