Made about a week ago Adam Ondra Stop in Charmey, the French sport climbing area, where Pirmin Bertle has set up and made some tough routes. During his brief visit, Adam succeeded in repeating Pirmin's 9b rated route meoise in a few experiments. And - that's what it's about here - Adam suggested a devaluation on 9a +. This makes for the first-time climber Pirmin Bertle for irritation.
Anyone who discovers a serious route, drills it in, and even walks by it, is in most cases pleased with the service provided. When the world's best climber repeats the route, it's usually just another reason to celebrate. That's what happened to Pirmin Bertle. "When I heard about Adam's first repetition of meiosis some days ago, my first response clearly was joy. Finally someone did it! ", He writes on his website after hearing about Adam's visit to Charmey.
The joy was short lived
When Pirmin reached the message, a certain uneasiness mingled with the initial joy, as Pirmin goes on to say: "As only so few climbers master this grade in general and especially far from home (basically Adam and Alex), and as "I mixed my feelings, and my thoughts began to narrow in the expectancy of something unpleasant Pirmin It was not by chance, because it came what he suspected, but did not hope: Adam Ondra devalued his route from 9b to 9a +.
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Pirmin Bertle does not let the devaluation by Adam Ondra sit on and leads in his news article several arguments as to why the devaluation by Ondra is not legitimate. For example, he writes that Adam Ondra uses a knee-jerk that only taller persons and those with disproportionately long legs (like Adam Ondra) can do. "In addition smaller climber can not climb down from the third bolt and thus have just before the first crux. What makes a downgrading even more a luxury issue for "tall" climbers like him, "Pirmin continues.
The said knee jamming of Adam Ondra in Meoise
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Even routes of greats like Chris Sharma are devalued
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Credits: picture Pirmin Bertle - lizardclimbing.com