Made about a week ago Adam Ondra Stop in Charmey, the French sport climbing area, where Pirmin Bertle has set up and made some tough routes. During his brief visit, Adam succeeded in repeating Pirmin's 9b rated route meoise in a few attempts. And - that's what this is about - Adam suggested a downgrade to 9a +. This causes irritation for the first ascent Pirmin Bertle.
Anyone who discovers, drills in and even climbs a difficult route for the first time is in most cases happy about the performance. When the world's best climber repeats the route, that's usually another reason to be happy. This is what happened to Pirmin Bertle. “When I heard about Adam's first repetition of meiosis some days ago, my first response clearly was joy. Finally someone did it! ”He wrote on his website after hearing about Adam's visit to Charmey.
The joy was short lived
When Pirmin got the message, the initial joy was mixed with a certain discomfort, as Pirmin continues: "As only so few climbers master this grade in general and especially far away from home (basically Adam and Alex), and as I know how both grade and think, my eyes already then began to narrow in the expectancy of something unpleasant. " The mixed feelings of Pirmin It was not by chance, because it came what he suspected, but did not hope: Adam Ondra devalued his route from 9b to 9a +.
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Pirmin Bertle does not let the devaluation by Adam Ondra sit on and leads in his news article raises several arguments why Ondra's devaluation is not legitimate. For example, he writes that Adam Ondra uses a knee clamp that is only possible for tall people and those with disproportionately long legs (like Adam Ondra). “In addition smaller climber can't climb down from the third bolt and thus have to clip just before the first crux. What makes a downgrading even more a luxury problem for “tall” climbers like him ”, Pirmin continues his argument.
The said knee jamming of Adam Ondra in Meoise
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Even routes of greats like Chris Sharma are devalued
Credits: picture Pirmin Bertle - lizardclimbing.com