The 21-year-old Vita Lukan has been in the illustrious women's club for a few days, who was able to score a route with the level of difficulty 8b + in the first attempt and without bouldering.
Vita Lukan is known to most for her success in competitive climbing. Together with Jessica Pilz she shared first place in the Arco Rock Master competition and climbed onto the podium for the first time in her career at the IFSC World Cup in Briançon. It is rarely found on the rock.
The success of last week is all the more astonishing. In the Spanish sport climbing mecca Rodellar you succeed in the ascent of the route Geminis (8b +) - onsight! Geminis is a 40 meter long and heavily overhanging route on the right side of the Gran Boveda sector.
It was a huge battle not just against the pump, but against myself. I found it difficult to stay calm in the upper part of this long route.
Vital Lucan
Only a few women have managed to climb a route onsight at this level of difficulty. In the illustrious club there are names like Josune Bereziartu (2006) Charlotte Durif (2010) Maya Vidmar (2010) Sasha DiGiulian (2011) Kajsa roses (2016) Anak Verhoeven (2019) Laura Rogora (2020) and Martina Demmel (2021)
For women, the level of difficulty 8b + is still the upper limit for onsight climbing. In view of the achievements in the red point area - already three women climbed 9b - an amazing fact, actually.
Not onsight, but climbed very quickly Vital Lucan Incidentally, the day before yesterday the 8c route Welcome to Tijuana, namely in the third attempt. The race for the first 8c onsight ascent is still going on.
Video: Chris Sharma trying to onsight the Geminis route
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Credits: Cover picture Nace Gosnik