Will Bosi succeeds in the first ascent of Free at Last in Dumbarton. If his suggested rating of 9a+ is confirmed by potential repeaters, the overhanging and technically demanding line would be considered the toughest sport climbing route in Scotland.
The Scottish Climber Will Bosi can hardly be stopped at the moment. He repeats the most difficult climbs on the treadmill. We remember: During his Czech Republic trips in April he has within a day Charizard (8B+), Fenixovy Slzy (8a+) as well The Swirl King Sitstart (8a+, FA) flashed and shortly thereafter Bulbasaur (8C) first ascent. His final ticklist from Brno is as long as it is impressive and contains various boulders in the upper eighth level of difficulty.
Already in May, Will Bosi announced the first ascent of The Southern Hooligan (9a) in Peak District. In June, the two Aidan Roberts Boulders were repeated Silent Singer (8C) and outliers (8C) and the first ascent of Trance (8C). And now Will Bosi opens with Free at Last (9a+) the toughest sport climbing route in Scotland.
Video: Will Bosis Summer Sends
Free at Last (9a+): Most difficult route in Scotland
Will Bosis's most recent first ascent, Free at Last (9a+), is on an overhanging, bare rock section to the right of the crack Requiem (E8, 6c). The line in the climbing area Dumbarton was drilled a long time ago. Known as dumbarton-oaks or La Dumby-Dumby Project, she gained attention in 2014 when Dave Macleod and Alan Cassidy they re-drilled and began to project in earnest.
Will Bosi had attempted the route a number of times in the past. But only this year did he intensify his efforts. With success: After seven sessions, the Scottish climbing pro reached the deflector of Free at Last. Will Bosi suggests a level of difficulty of 9a+. In his assessment, he draws comparisons to the route Hunger (9a), even if they are very different in style. "Hunger's crux is an 8A boulder, while I would assume Free at Last's crux is around 8B+/8C."
«Dumbarton is one of my favorite rocks. And having climbed a lot there, it's a very special feeling to be able to climb my own route in an area that holds such a special place in the history of Scottish climbing."
Will Bosi
Scotland's potentially most difficult sport climbing route is closest to the line, according to Will Bosi Mutation comparable in that it features the same sustained and technically difficult climb. "Only in this case all the handles are the wrong way around," says Bosi. "Although from the ground it looks like there are a lot of holds, almost all of them are under-grips or side-grips." Despite, or perhaps because of, these difficulties, Will Bosi hopes Free at Last will attract more people to Dumbarton.
"Although from the ground it looks like there are a lot of holds, almost all of them are under-grips or side-grips."
Will Bosi
Continuation of its shape curve
With the first ascent of Free at Last (9a +), Will Bosi once again underlines his excellent form. His performance curve has been steadily increasing since his foray through the Czech Republic this spring. Will Bosi already proved in 2021 Inspections of various world-class routes and bouldering in Spain and the UK that he is rightly considered one of the best climbers in the world.
That might interest you
- Will Bosi climbs Silent Singer (8C) | Video
- This is how 9b + climber William Bosi trains
- Will Bosi in an interview: Is mutation even 9b?
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Credits: Band of Birds cover art