Today, August 6, 2021, the women's Olympic final round will take place in the sport climbing disciplines of speed, bouldering and lead. We continuously summarize and show the results.
UPDATE 13.42 p.m.
Lead ticker / ranking: Japan against Janja, Pilz with rank 7
Soon it will start. The Polish Aleksandra Miroslaw will be the first to enter the final route. Everything is still open. Janja Garnbret is still in first place in the overall ranking. But if Janja Garnbret does not win in lead climbing, but for example Miho Nonaka, who is currently third, Janja would be in second place and Miho in first place. Accordingly, the competition remains exciting until the end. Now Aleksandra Miroslaw is getting on board.
End early for Miroslaw and Jaubert
Aleksandra Miroslaw, a classic speed climber, already fails at grip 9. The next one is a speed climber, Anouck Jaubert. How high will it get? She climbed Aleksandra's Highpoint. A little later she roars belligerently, even tangled in rope. A few seconds later, at handle 13, there is a fall.
Brooke Raboutou below expectations
Now the first lead climber is climbing the route: Brooke Raboutou. The 20-year-old American comes from a famous climbing family and has won numerous World Cups. She quickly reaches Anouck Jaubert's high point, and a little later jumps dynamically to two crescent moons. At the next handle she allows herself a short shake before moving on vigorously. Now she is in a passage with finger holes and - flies out! Brooke Raboutou achieves the highest grip so far (20), but is certainly far below her expectations and the performance of her closest opponents.
New highpoint for Noguchi
Next, the bouldering specialist Akiyo Noguchi will start the lead route. She climbs confidently to the hole passage. Almost statically, Noguchi reaches for the finger hole where Raboutou failed. A first scream, she switches to combat mode, climbs through the compression passage, pulls on - and falls at handle 29. New highpoint. Janja Garnbret is next at the start. Will they top the route?
Highly concentrated, she climbs to the hole passage. She knows there must be no mistake. Now she starts the sweeping pull, where you land on a big step with your left foot. Here she shakes briefly and then slowly grabs the handle on which Raboutou failed. Now follow the widely spaced handles, the compression passage. She has to shake one of the handles of the passage again. Go on. She is clearly struggling, takes a deep breath. She is not yet at the high point of Noguchi. So now it's done. From a large sloper on the right it goes up to another sloping grip. A hook must be set with the right and dynamically gripped with the left hand on a large sloper crescent on which a small handle is screwed. She goes, hits, stops. Can she make the top? There is still a complex passage to be made, Garnbret is visibly chipped. But she keeps fighting - and then she falls. At handle 37, it's over for Janja Garnbret. If it is not climbed, it wins gold. But nonaka, mushroom and seo are still missing. Should Nonaka and Pilz climb higher than the Slovenian, she would fall from the throne.
Will Nonaka win the gold medal?
Miho Nonaka gets in and climbs through the area with the yellow handles and then - Miho Nonaka falls out! Handle 21 is the end of it. Jessica Pilz is the last to start. Will she, like her compatriot Jakob Schubert, top the route? For Jessica it means in any case: all or nothing!
She climbs resolutely and safely off. Your team cheers you on. A little too dynamically she goes to the left, at the end of the yellow passage, holds the handle with arch and noise and collects herself for the first time. It pulls steadily to the well-known finger hole, then we continue into the compression climbing passage. A lot of power is left behind here. She still looks very strong, continues to climb without long shakers - in contrast to Janja and Noguchi. She pulls up dynamically, chalks. Yes, she is also holding the Sloper Crescent, reaching out. It looks promising, but then she's thrown out.
Janja Garnbret untouchable
But now Chaehyun Seo is getting involved. She can still change the ranking, but Janja Garnbret is inviolable. The young Korean climbs in a controlled manner, you can feel: after a disappointing performance in speed and bouldering, she wants to show what she can do. When pulling on the hole handle, it has to go down again. At the next attempt it works and she climbs into the green zone of the route. This is where compression force is required. The petite climber uses her feet to the maximum in order to climb the passage as effortlessly as possible. Now it goes over the two slopers to the left, she slips off easily. Oh God. But she holds on and sets the hook with her right. Shaking is the order of the day. Only a few trains separate them from Janja Garnbret's Highpoint - but then it's over!
Ranking lead final women
Bouldering - ticker / ranking list: speed climbers despair, Janja dominates
The Polish Miroslaw starts. As a speed climber, she shows her effort at the start of the first boulder. She gives up even though she still had 40 seconds left. The cleaning team does not have to brush many of the handles until the second athlete comes on the mat: Anouck Jaubert. She also comes from speed climbing, but is much more diversified than Aleksandra Miroslaw. In this way, you can get off the starting handle on the first attempt. In the second attempt it even reaches a zone, thanks to a somewhat dynamic move.
Mushroom and Seo switch beta too late
The third at the start is the Austrian Jessica Pilz, who, unlike the two previous athletes, feels at home in the bouldering discipline. But: It starts several times with the same beta unsuccessfully until it implements the solution that already brought Anouck Jaubert forward. But then there is no longer enough time for Pilz, she has to be satisfied with one zone. Miho Nonaka tries to find a way to the zone with a hand restraint, but realizes that this is not the solution. Is she rethinking and changing the beta? There is only one minute 29 seconds left. Again and again she starts, foot over to the volume, right with support, fall. Miho Nonaka goes back into isolation without a top and without a zone.
The Korean Chaehyun Seo also relies on the solution with the support movement on the right volume in her attempt. Is this solution also somehow possible? When will she give up this beta and look for an alternative solution? Three seconds before the end comes the insight that she wants to put her foot up, but then comes the final tone. Seo comes out empty-handed.
Akiyo causes a surprise: support beta possible
Akiyo Noguchi, the old master steps on the mat and takes the time, in the usual calm manner, to clean the handles herself before she gets in. The support beta is also used with her. Surprise moment! Akiyo manages to implement the support beta. The variant envisaged by the route setters therefore works. So the zone has caught her, but unfortunately she reaches a little too far at the next yellow big crescent in the upper right corner and misses the mini-grip screwed on it. She has to be content with the zone.
Foot up, but with a supportive movement?
The 20-year-old Brooke Raboutou is the only one to place her right foot directly on the first yellow volume on the first attempt, so she wants to implement the solution from Jaubert, Pilz. But before she performs the movement, she switches back to the support beta. And then the big surprise, she climbs confidently with the usual beta to the zone, then continues, stands under the top grip, looks up, doesn't know how to continue, the clock runs out before she starts to jump towards the top grip. Unfortunately, she can't hold him. What a go!
The only top thanks to Janja Garnbret
In the first attempt, Janja Garnbret implements the solution proposed by the route setters and takes the zone directly. One move further is also over for them, the foot slips off the volume. Unlike in the qualification, Janja does not crack a boulder in the first attempt. Two more times she masters the first point where all previous athletes struggled without any effort, but falls on the next move, which she makes very dynamically. But enough now, she tells herself. In the fourth go she is the first to top the technically demanding boulder.
A bizarre start - again two solutions possible
A look at the second boulder suggests that it starts with three extremities on the left volume, with just one hand on the right volume. The first athlete, Aleksandra Miroslaw starts correctly, but does not know how to free herself from the position. She laughs again and again, indicating her despair. Again and again she starts, is puzzling before the boulder problem - the perplexity is written on her face. The last minute is dawning, and we suffer with it. At 40 seconds she says early, done with probing. Aleksandra Miroslaw is overwhelmed with the tricky boulder. This underlines once again the extreme differences between the disciplines of bouldering / lead and speed - we can't resist it. After Miroslaw, the second speed specialist in the women's final, Jaubert, is under boulder number 2. Also brings herself to the starting position and wedges herself between the two large gray volumes. Dead end. Enough.
Jessica Pilz follows the route planned by the route setters
After these two performances we are looking forward to the Austrian Jessica Pilz. Finally. Jessica Pilz climbs the boulder upside down, with her back to the wall, and reaches the zone on the third attempt. When the time is up, there is no top for Jessica Pilz either - will Miho Nonaka, who is next to compete, pick it up? We are amazed, Miho Nonaka climbs into the boulder, like the speed specialists, with his back to the audience - and above all stays with this beta for a long time. The two-minute mark has been reached, she climbs straight into the boulder again - and contrary to the route planner's idea - she also creates the zone in this way. Wow. After holding the zone in a controlled manner, it cautiously sneaks further up the sloping volume, without any handles, everything wobbly. She squints at the top handle, wants to jump - and slip off. And the time has already run out. Miho Nonaka is currently ranked 4th in bouldering, but this value can still change.
It continues with Chaehyun Seo. If he gives up at 20 seconds, the solution, at least the one suggested by the route setters, will not be found.
Again nobody makes it to the top - except ...
Akiyo Noguchi stays true to himself, first cleans the boulder, stands quietly in front of it and then gets in. With your back to the audience. The hands are desperately looking for handles, above, to the side, below the small handle? It's gone, out of the wall. She climbs straight into the boulder again - and like her compatriot Miho Nonaka, she gets to the zone with this solution. But it doesn't go any further, the attempt to get into a support position with the left hand fails. She is currently in second place, thanks to fewer zones than Jessica Pilz.
Like almost everyone else, Brooke Raboutou is initially pursuing the frontal solution, patting the wall with his hands - that also sounds familiar to us. At the third attempt it works, as with Noguchi and Nonaka, she creates the zone. Then it goes to the next volume in a controlled manner. Hand up to the last volume before the top handle. The clock is ticking, running out - and then Brooke starts the final jump, but does not hold the handle. Hair-sharp.
Janja also climbs forward into the boulder, successfully reaching the first zone. Will she flash the boulder? Further left to the gray volume, she takes a deep breath. She stays on the edge of the penultimate volume for a long time, looks up, grabs the last volume in between, then goes back down with her hand. Then: attack, she jumps and holds the top grip!
Only three zones on the last boulder
On the third and last boulder, Miroslaw is properly the first on the mat. Again the same situation: She can't get away from the starting grips, smiles sheepishly. We cheered, but without effect. How does Anouck Jaubert, who comes in second, do? She is visibly more motivated to tackle the third bouldering problem in the women's final. It builds up the tension required to continue to grip the next grip in the extended starting position and the left toe hook. It continues to a thin crack, but it cannot hold it. Again and again she gets in, fights until the last second. But then it's over.
It continues with Jessica Pilz, who unfortunately has only reached two zones so far. She goes straight to the crack, holds it, but then it ends with her too. Still a good first go. Jessica makes it to the crack again, trying to dangle her right foot in the toe-hook position. Without success. She has to be content without a zone. It is currently in 5th place.
In the flash to the zone
Nonaka gets in very promising and climbs straight away to the zone. The jump up to the green shell is the end of the line. The top is denied to her until the time runs out. Thanks to the fact that she reached the zone in the first attempt, she is currently in second place.
Next, Seo tries his hand at boulder number three. She made it to the crack, but she couldn't go any further, as in the case of Jessica Pilz. It currently remains in 7th place. Is this boulder much too difficult and only solvable by the crown favorite Janja Garnbret? The oldest athlete in the field, 32-year-old Akiyo Noguchi climbs in, reaches the crack and remains in position for a long time to set the toe hook. But then you run out of strength. On the second try, she seems visibly exhausted, powerless. The qualifying round on Wednesday and today's speed run are in her bones.
Brooke Raboutou gets in promising, keeping the crack under control. First she tries to hook the left handle, but realizes that this is not possible. She tries to set the toe hook, but it doesn't work. Too bad. Brooke takes enough time to recover, swings her arms. She knows that she needs enough strength to swing to set the toe hook. At 1:50 minute she gets back in and reaches the zone
Can Janja fix it?
Now comes the woman who can still prove that the boulder can be solved: Janja Garnbret. The Slovening resolutely enters, reaches into the crack. Now that everyone is starting to shrink the toe hook, she goes straight and explosively to the zone grip. Janja doesn't need kicks, she holds the zone grip. Dynamically she starts the next train, reaches it, but slips and falls almost flat on her back. Ouch. Despite this promising attempt and further attempts, Janja also has to go off the mat without a top - as number 1 in the bouldering discipline.
Final bouldering ranking
Speed - result / summary: Miroslaw with a new speed world record, Japanese women in 3rd and 4th place
After yesterday's men's final competition at the latest, it was clear that the speed result has a very high impact on the outcome of the competition. The greater the tension during the run in the women's speed discipline. Two speed specialists were at the start, the French Anouck Jaubert and the Polish Aleksandra Miroslaw.
In the quarter-finals, Aleksandra Miroslaw and Chaehyun Seo were the first to compete against each other. The speed specialist ran half a second below her best time, but nevertheless easily prevailed against Seo. For Seo it was already clear: ranks 1 to 4 are gone. In the duel Pilz against Noguchi, the Japanese was much more nimble, so Pilz could only hope for places 5 to 8. The same happened to today's gold medal favorite, the Slovenian Janja Garnbret. She had a difficult time in the first run, because on the second starting block next to her was a speed specialist: Anouck Jaubert. As expected, the French woman prevailed over Garnbret and thus thwarted the Slovenian woman quite a mortgage. In the last run of the speed quarter-finals, there was a duel between the American Brooke Raboutou and the Japanese Miho Nonaka. Raboutou made a mistake that resulted in a fall - as a result, she too can only fight for places 5 to 8.
Jessica Pilz with an important victory in the placement runs
In the placement runs for ranks 5 to 8, the losers of the quarter-finals competed against each other. Jessica Pilz prevailed against Chaehyun Seo, which was very important for the Austrian. In the duel Raboutou-Garnbret there is a moment of horror. The Slovenian almost falls off the route, but can hold on. Without hesitation, she gives everything again and starts to catch up with the American, who is now much higher up. Against all odds, she presses the buzzer of the speed route 0.1 seconds earlier than Brooke Raboutou - wow!
As expected in the semifinals
After a short break, the semi-finals continue, i.e. the duels between the winners of the quarter-finals. The speed specialist Miroslaw has to win in order to have any chance of winning a medal. And it does that too. There is no surprise in the second duel either, the speed specialist from France, Anouck Jaubert, wins against her Japanese opponent Miho Nonaka.
Next up are the placement runs for ranks 7 and 8. Raboutou climbs the wall much faster and completes the speed discipline with rank 7, Seo ends up in last place. The important duel for 5th place takes place between Garnbret and Pilz. Up to the middle of the wall both flew up the wall at the same speed. Then the power at Pilz slackened - or to put it another way - Janja Garnbret stepped up and pressed the buzzer at 7.81 seconds.
Speed specialists in places 1 and 2
The speed discipline was completed by Miho Nonaka with 3rd place and Akiyo Noguchi with 4th place. The last on the starting blocks are the Polish Miroslaw and the French Jaubert. Will the 7-second time be cracked? For a long time both lie on the same floor. But then Miroslaw suddenly chases away - almost unbelievable! She gets the new world record for women: 6.84 seconds. It clearly undercuts the previous world record of 6.96 seconds. was world record so far.
Final bouldering ranking
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Credits: Cover picture Dimitris Tosidis / IFSC