Today, August 4, 2021, the women's Olympic qualification round will take place in the sport climbing disciplines of speed, bouldering and lead. We continuously summarize and show the results.
UPDATE 16.30 p.m.
Lead - result / summary: Seo eliminated before Pilz and Nonaka - Klingler
The 17-year-old Korean Chaehyun Seo made it the highest in the lead route (handle 40) and secured first place. So she qualified for the final on Friday. The Austrian Jessica Pilz (handle 1) climbed confidently to second place. She kept her nerves with it. Knowing that her overall ranking would immediately skyrocket with a score of 2 from speed and boulder with a lead that was too low, she started the lead route with a concentrated, yet efficient approach. It only fell in the last section of the route.
This is the ranking of the lead competition:
Klingler below expectations, but so did Garnbret
The Swiss Petra Klingler (score 100) had a similar starting position. But unlike Pilz, Klingler started nervously and needed too much strength in the first section. She clipped once from an inconvenient position, then did not find the ideal beta with her leg extended and fell into the rope just before the middle section. Her reaction immediately made it clear that this had not gone according to plan. One also had the impression that Klingler had even more power in the tank, but that she could no longer bring it to the wall.
Janja Garnbret could not maintain her impressive pace from the bouldering competition (everything flashed). Although it started promisingly, it did not find an ideal solution at the transition to the last section of the route. You could literally feel how the pump got the upper hand without her getting away from handle number 30 - she looked correspondingly dissatisfied afterwards on the floor, looked up the wall for a long time and seemed to be wondering: "What was I doing there?"
Nevertheless, it was enough for 4th place in the lead competition, she was already qualified for the final (she didn't even have to take part in the lead). Your lead attempt was somewhat reminiscent of Tomoa Narasaki's yesterday: it was supposed to be a run free of qualifying pressure - but nothing there!
Thanks to speed: Miroslav in the final, Rogora out
Even if there wasn't a single top, the route planner's plan seemed to work quite well. The route was selective and in most cases dropped the aspirants where they could be expected based on their preferences. So the speed specialists mostly stayed on the track early, the Polish Aleksandra Miroslav for example: she voluntarily sat on the rope at handle 12 with a touch of fear of falling. Nevertheless, she is the big surprise of the day - because she still qualified for the finals on Friday. First place in speed is thanks to it.
On the other hand, the happy nature of the day, Shauna Coxsey, did not make it to the finals (final rank 10). Laura Rogora couldn't turn things around either. She did not manage to stamp out her mortgage at Speed (19th place). Unfortunately, in this combined format, one has to keep in mind: for some, speed means a burden that can hardly be corrected, while others only land in the final thanks to speed. Fortunately, this format will be held in Tokyo for the first and last time - as early as 2024 in Paris, Speed will have its own medal.
This is the final ranking of the women's qualification day (the top 8 qualify for the finals on Friday):
Bouldering - result / summary: Garnbret with a show of power, Klingler in 10th place, Pilz in 9th place
“4T4z 4 4” - this sequence of characters must be the dream of every competitive athlete, it means: four tops and four zones in four attempts. Or in other words: all four boulder problems were flashed. This is exactly what the Slovenian Janja Garnbret demonstrated again today after she was the last to step on the stage. Until then, the competition was balanced, the route setters seemed to have set adequate problems. Until then, there was no athlete who topped all the problems, and there was also no boulder in which everyone would have had no chance. Brooke Rabatou led for a long time, followed by Akyo Noguchi.
When Janja Garnbret started, she literally rolled up the field from behind. One could think that a strange gravitational anomaly was spreading, now that only Garnbret did her homework more or less alone in the Japanese night. She walked up the boulder problems as if they were ladders. That should give the route builders something to think about for the final - how do you screw a nutshell for a piece of thread that doesn't overwhelm the rest of the competition?
Good-humored Coxsey, serious Rogora
Shauna Coxsey showed a strong and refreshing performance. She has already decided to retire from competitive climbing after the games, now seems to be enjoying every minute and is on course for the final (intermediate rank 8). There was hardly a moment in which she did not laugh, the British woman was obviously having fun.
It looked different with the Italian Laura Rogora. After she only got her first top in the third boulder problem (but there was flash!), She looked more angry than relieved. Obviously, things did not go to their liking after she had created an unfavorable starting position with 19th place in the speed competition. She is currently in 17th place and needs a good performance in the lead in order to maintain the final chances.
The Austrian Jessica Pilz and the Swiss Petra Klingler are practically on a par, occupying intermediate ranks 15 and 16 with only one score point difference. With strong performances in the lead, the final qualification (top 8) is still possible for both.
Is speed weighted too much?
The Polish Aleksandra Miroslaw, who almost equaled the women's world record in the speed competition (missing a hundredth of a second), is currently in second place. In the following bouldering competition she tried her best, but didn't manage a single zone and was last. The fact that it is still on the second intermediate rank has to do with the combined scoring, where the individual ranks of each discipline are multiplied (i.e. 2 x 1 = score 20).
For comparison: Janja Garnbret, who at least showed a mediocre performance in speed, got a score of 14. The final result will of course only be determined after the lead competition, but one can say: it probably makes more sense for all athletes that 2024 in Paris Speed will be held as an individual discipline.
This is the ranking of the bouldering competition (qualification women):
Speed climbing - result / summary: Aleksandra Miroslaw wins, Petra Klingler sets a new Swiss speed record
The 27-year-old Aleksandra Miroslaw (1st place) won the first round of the qualifying round in speed climbing. She set a personal best twice and missed Iuliia Kaplina's current world speed record by just 0.01 seconds. Iuliia Kaplina, for her part, set for a new world record - that was the feeling due to the speed - but slipped on the very last jump to the measuring block and fell off the route. It occupies the 5th intermediate rank.
Miho Nonaka (4th place) seems to be in the best shape and she too was able to set a new personal best in qualifying with 7.55 seconds. The Swiss Petra Klingler set a new Swiss speed record with 8.42 seconds and finished 10th in the speed discipline.
Ranking list qualification speed climbing
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Credits: Cover picture Daniel Gajda / IFSC