Editors
Editors

You should avoid these 3 mistakes in fingerboard training

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Whether beginner or pro, many climbers make the same mistakes when training fingerboards. In the video, professional climber and coach Tom Randall clears up the three most common mistakes and explains the effect of fatigue, as well as body and grip position on training success.

Fingerboard training can bring a significant increase in strength but also injuries. Explains how to avoid the latter Tom randall, professional climber and coach for many years. He has worked with a great many climbers over the past 20 years and has closely observed the fingerboard revolution. In doing so, he found that significant mistakes were made.

Tom Randall has picked out the three most common and goes into more depth in the following video:

  • Fingerboard training when you are too tired
  • posture when hanging
  • Too much focus on open grip positions

Video: Fingerboard Training - 3 Common Mistakes

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Why Adam Ondra downgrades “Exodia” from 9A+ to 9A

Editors -
Adam Ondra has achieved the first repeat of Elias Iagnemma's "Exodia" (9A+) in Val Pellice, Italy. The exceptional Czech climber considers the grade 9A more appropriate – likely also because he only needed four days for the route, compared to 212 days for the first ascensionists.
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Renowned big-wall climber Lara Neumeier became the first woman to complete "Rhapsody" (E11 7a, 8c+) at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland on October 7th. Dave MacLeod's route, established in 2006, was the world's first E11 and is still considered a test piece in trad climbing 20 years later.
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