Editors

Adam Ondra flashes as the first 8B gritstone boulder

Editors - 25 January 2023

Czech climber Adam Ondra was recently in the UK to climb and film with the Wide Boyz, Will Bosi and Magnus Midtbo. He managed a flash ascent of the Jerry Moffatt classic The Ace in Stanage Plantation. An 8B flash in the gritstone - that's never happened before Ondra.

ice climbing

Swiss ice climbing team in Champagny in a rush to win medals

Editors - 24 January 2023

The Swiss ice climbers made a strong showing at the UIAA World Cup and the European Championships taking place at the same time in Champagny-en-Vanoise: Vivien Labarile won two gold medals in the speed discipline, Petra Klingler won gold and silver and Benjamin Bosshard secured a silver medal. and a bronze medal.

mountaineering

Colin Haley climbs Goretta pillars on Fitz Roy solo alpine style

Editors - 23 January 2023

In January 1979, the Italian Renato Casarotto opened one of the most difficult alpine routes in Patagonia at the time: the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy. Last week, alpinist Colin Haley, known for his daring solo ascents, repeated the 1200-meter route single-handedly. In contrast to the first ascent, he completely dispensed with permanently installed ropes for his rope solo.

Climbing

All hooks flexed away: What next in the conflict over the Battert climbing area?

Editors - 22 January 2023

All the bolts on the Badener Wand in the Battert climbing area are gone. History becomes the case of the judiciary. What's wrong? What's next?

mountaineering

Know-how: This is how the South Tyrolean stand works

Editors - 21 January 2023

In recent years, the South Tyrolean stand has become “best practice” in alpine stand construction. But what exactly is a South Tyrolean booth? And what are the advantages or are there possibly also disadvantages? Chris Semmel has dealt intensively with the topic and also asked the inventors.

Climbing

Climbing is only allowed on five days a year: Macocha

Editors - 20 January 2023

In the Moravian Karst region of the Czech Republic, there is a 140-meter-deep collapse depression that forms a huge cave. There are climbing routes there, but climbing is only allowed on five days a year. Adam Ondra did not miss this opportunity.

Climbing

Jonas Schild repeats Trad classic Le Voyage (E10, 7a)

Editors - 19 January 2023

The Swiss mountain guide and climber Jonas Schild starts the new year by repeating the difficult trad route Le Voyage (E10, 7a). His personal journey did not go as planned. But as the saying goes: the unexpected often happens.

mountaineering

Setting ice screws: how it works | Ice Climbing Pro Tips

Editors - 18 January 2023

When climbing ice falls you have the freedom and privilege to choose your own climbing line and belay it as you see fit. For the latter, ice screws play a central role. In this article, the ice climber, mountain guide and author Peter von Känel explains what is important when it comes to ice screws.

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