Editors
Editors

Jakob Schubert in the Red Rocks: Is the 9a boulder threatened with devaluation?

bouldering

A few days ago, Jakob Schubert started his trip to the USA. Now the goal of his stay in Las Vegas is known: He projects the Boulder Return of the Sleepwalker (9a). When will the ascent work? Is the Boulder threatened with devaluation?

Accompanied by his buddies Nicolai Uznik and Michael Piccolruz is Jakob Schubert Arrived in Las Vegas late last week. It quickly became clear in the climbing scene what the goal of the trip was: the sport climbing route Jumbo Love (9b) or the 9a boulder Return of the Sleepwalker? Nicolai Uznik then gave the ultimate hint: Jakob Schubert aims to repeat the Boulder ROTS.

“On the road again – with Michael Piccolruaz and Nicolai Uznik. I'm really happy!"

Jakob Schubert

Return of the Sleepwalker was first climbed in April 2021 by the American Daniel Woods and rated 9a. Never before has Daniel Woods Invested so much time in climbing a boulder, which led him to rate the boulder with the magical grade 9a. The line is the sit launch version of the 8c+ rated Boulders Sleepwalker.

Jakob Schubert aka Mr. Downgrade

To date, a total of four boulders have been rated 9a, viz Burden of Dreams (Nalle Hukkataival), No Kpote Only (Charles Albert) and Soudain Seul (Simon Lorenzi). The latter two were repeated a short time later and downgraded in their difficulty. That leaves the lines of Nalle Hukkataival and Daniel Woods.

Will Jakob Schubert repeat the line Daniel Woods climbed first during the trip? A look at his performance over the past few weeks and months suggests that he will be able to repeat it.

Nicolai Uznik announced on the first day: "All trains climbed." (Picture Nicolai Uznik)
Nicolai Uznik announced on the first day: "All trains climbed." (Photo Nicolai Uznik)

The even bigger question is whether Schubert will confirm the level of difficulty. At least since his trip to Spain in December, Schubert has been carrying the takeovers “Mr. downgrade". Several difficult sport climbing routes (King Cappella, La Capella, etc.) in the upper ninth French degree, the Austrian climbed within a few days and devalued all by one degree.

Meets the same fate as Daniel Woods with the boulder The Return of the Sleepwalker Will Bosi with the King Capella and La Capella routes? The presence of Jakob Schubert is guaranteed to give Daniel Woods sleepless nights.

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Credits: Cover picture Nicolai Uznik

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Rätikon: Babsi Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat “Déjà” (8c+) – the hardest multi-pitch ascent by a woman

Editors -
With their free ascent of "Déjà" on the south face of the Kirchlispitzen, the Austrian woman and the Italian man have completed their hardest project to date in the Rätikon. It is the first time the line has ever been repeated – and probably the first time a woman has climbed a multi-pitch route graded 8c+.
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Climbing a 9a+ was Leo Cea's clear goal for 2026. The year is far from over, but the plan has already been achieved: On September 2nd, the 13-year-old German-Chilean climber completed a real endurance challenge with "No Pain No Gain" in Rodellar.
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Editors -
John Thornton's film "Renaturation" follows Silvan Schüpbach to Wilderswil. There, he freed a forgotten sport climbing route from its rusty bolts and then climbed it clean. A film about style, climbing ethics, and what climbing beyond maximum difficulty can mean.
Read more