Editors
Editors

Keenan Takahashi repeats the 8c Boulder Kintsugi

bouldering

Californian Keenan Takahashi takes the fourth ascent of 8c Boulder Kintsugi in Red Rock Canyon.

"Possibly the best boulder I've ever done. Exhilarated, adrenalized, and psyched beyond belief ”, were Keenan's words after climbing the boulder Kintsugi, It sounded similar to the Swiss Nils Favrewhen he secured the third ascent of Kintsugi a year ago. First came the dream line in January 2015 of Nalle Hukkataival.

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Together with Daniel Woods we found a new Beta

“I tried the boulder for the first time in December 2016 when Jimmy Webb also planned the line, ”says Keenan in an interview with LACRUX. At that time he was only able to climb two of the five difficult moves. “This year the bad weather got me out of the Yosemite Valley "Hunted" and I decided Kintsugi as my ultimate goal, "he continues." I tried Jimmy's solution in three sessions, but was never able to stop one train. At the fourth session came Daniel Woods and we found a beta that is more similar to that of Nalle. ”With this new beta, Keenan projected the boulder a few more times in the top rope and then got the ascent in the sixth session.

Video: Nalle projecting Kintsugi

Credits: Cover picture Kevin Takashi Smith

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Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

Editors -
On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.
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Editors -
Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.
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The right time to get climbing shoes resoled is sooner than you might think: when there's about one millimeter of sole left. Honestly, nobody measures it, but how do I know when I should get my shoes resoled, and where can I even do that?
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