American climber Paul Robinson does the first repetition of a new boulder on the Dreamtime block in Cresciano: REM (8c+). He suggests 8b+.
Another American has been in southern Switzerland since the end of February: Paul Robinson. In addition to numerous other difficult ascents, he managed to climb REM (8c +), a boulder that the local hero Giuliano Cameroni first climbed a year ago.
“The key point of the boulder is a“ low-percentage ”move away from two micro-strips. I fell on this move for a month. After a two-week break, I returned and climbed the line on the first attempt. "
Giuliano Cameroni on the first ascent of REM
Giuliano Cameroni was struggling with the rating at the time. 8c or 8c+? He wasn't sure, but finally announced REM as 8c+. One year later, a new aspirant at the block. Paul Robinson invested a few short sessions in the line until he managed to climb it. He managed the key move on his second attempt. Given the quick climb and a comparison with lines like Hypnotized Minds, Burden of Dreams, prompted Paul to give a massively lower rating for REM in Cresciano: 8b+.
“I think 8b + fits a lot more as a rating for this line. It is important to me that the difficulty rating is consistent around the world. And quite apart from the rating, it's super cool that Giuliano Cameroni made the first ascent of this line on this historic block. "
Paul Robinson on REM
The massive devaluation of the line quickly raises the question of whether Paul Robinson the Ticino Giuliano Cameroni wants to get one over on him. He clearly denies this.
“I'm not at war with Giuliano. He is a friend of mine and the devaluation of the difficulty is not meant to be offensive. The boulder just felt like 8b +. As simple as that."
Paul Robinson
Samuel Ometz raises the question of why Paul Robinson does not mention that he climbed the boulder with a different solution than Giuliano. Paul counters that he told Giuliano his solution when the two talked about the line a year ago.
"Giuliano told me that my solution wasn't easier for him, which is why he climbed REM in his own way."
Paul Robinson's answer to Samuel Ometz's question
The German also joins the discussion Markus Bock a. He planned REM together with Paul last Saturday and says: "When I bouldered, I also had the feeling that the line is much easier than 8c +."
The fact is: The difficulty of the line will only emerge over time if other strong boys and girls climb the line. And one more thing is certain: the line and the sequence of the boulder looks awesome.