Just over a week ago reported LACRUX and many more media about the celebration of the Cresciano classic The Story of Two Worlds by Christof Rauch and Pawel Jelonek, A little later, another boulderer managed the throughway without anyone reporting it. The "secret" talent is Sebastian Cotting from the canton of Friborg. We met Sebastian in Ticino last weekend and talked to him about his historic visit.
The interview with Sebastian Cotting
Congratulations for the first time, Sebastian, to your celebration of The Story of Two Worlds, What did you think of first after a successful ascent?
I thought: That was definitely not a perfect way through, but it was one!
When did you first look at the line and start designing the boulder?
In February 2014 I witnessed an impressive climb through The Story of Two Worlds by my good friend Giuliano Cameroni, That was also the first time that I briefly on the trains from the start The Dagger tried. The following October, to my great astonishment, I was able to climb it relatively easily in three days in poor conditions. When I looked at the start of the seat a few weeks later, I immediately found a completely new solution, which included a knee clamp, among other things. This moment was the starting signal and determined one of the key moments in all the years of designing.
How many attempts, on how many days have you estimated to invest?
It was probably between 70 and 100 days that I spent under this block. So correct attempts to get off the start (low start), I've given in the last 40 sessions. I had time and energy per session for at most 10 attempts.
Where do you get the immense endurance and stamina?
My mental strength is certainly the most important factor in training and climbing. I would also call it my greatest strength. At this point a big thank you to my "fellow sufferers" Martin kellerwho plays a very inspirational role in my climbing life.
Why did you decide to project exactly this boulder?
When I started climbing as an 13 year old, my big goal was to someday plan and climb a line that was really hard for me. For years I chose my project according to strict criteria. These included good accessibility by public transport, not too long approach, not too large crowds, preferably away from the main sectors, a line that dries quickly after rain and is not dangerously high or individual body parts excessively unhealthy load (really healthy is so heavy bouldering sure Not). And of course the line had to convince me visually and with the beauty of the trains, which in the best case also correspond to my climbing style. And that's exactly what "Story" did. No other boulder nearly lived up to these criteria. It was the perfect project for me, one that exists only once in the world for every climber. And I had the incredible luck to find my personally perfect project in my adopted home Tessin.
You are not known to the masses, though you boulder heavily. Why?
This has to do mainly with the fact that I'm not active on any social media platform and deny no competitions. Both are not suitable for my attitude towards climbing. In addition, I often train alone in a small, semi-public boulder room. And otherwise, the climbing scene in my hometown Friborg is very small.
Are you supported by sponsors? If not, how do you finance your hobby?
No, I do not have sponsors, although I apply every year. As far as the sponsorship of strong, young rock climbers is concerned, in Switzerland, in my opinion, there is still a lot of catching up to do. Luckily I was able to finance the GA and my climbing equipment pretty well with summer jobs and civil service assignments.
How much time do you invest in bouldering?
Training is very important to me. Pure bouldering and rope climbing only accounted for about 20 percent of my athletic activity last year. The rest was fitness training. One training session lasted from 1 to 3 hours, depending on the week spread over 4 to 7 days.
What is your favorite area?
Ticino is at the top of bouldering. The excellent rock quality, but also the language, the climate, the fauna and flora in this part of Switzerland have particularly appealed to me. Rather for logistical reasons (I do not have a driver's license) I would say that Cresciano is my favorite bouldering area. My favorite rope climbing area is clearly Gimmelwald.
Have you already considered a next long-term project?
The legendary "Coup de Grâce" in the Bavona Valley. Later, hopefully, it will be the higher peaks of this world.
Video about the committing of The Story of Two Worlds by Sebastian Cotting
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