Not only the boulderers and boulderers will be in Moscow this weekend, but also the "sprinters of climbing" will show on the speed wall what it means to go full throttle. The entry list shows especially in the case of speed an increase of the participants: Who wants to be in the Olympic Games 2020, must also insist in the speed. That's why you can now find international top boulderers among the athletes who did not even look at the Speedwand in passing.
The outcry was great when it was announced that speedclimbing is a mandatory part of the Olympic format. For most climbers, their sport is an expression of the movement creativity that can be expressed in both bouldering and rope climbing. However, there is not anything more standardized than the Speedwand: always the same handle on 15 meters in the same setting screwed to the wall. In the meantime, however, the future Olympians have come to terms with it. And even if, for example Jan Hojer (DAV Frankfurt / Main) on Facebook writes that he will never again hold a speed grip after that, he still works hard on his speed record.
It is climbed in the KO system, that is, two climbers start simultaneously on two identical routes. The faster one wins or qualifies for the next round. If you take a look at the overall World Cup winners of the last twenty years, they all come from Eastern countries, where this kind of sport already has a long tradition.
The current world record lies with the men at 5,48 seconds, set up by the Iranian Reza Alipourshenazandifar. For the ladies it is a fast 7,32 seconds - by the French Anouck Jaubert.
On Saturday we go to the blocks
Ultimately, however, speed climbing is more like the hors d'oeuvre of bouldering that takes place over Saturday and Sunday, 13. and 14. April, extends. Certainly the winners of Meiringen, the Slovenian Janja Garnbret and the Czech Adam Ondra, will do everything they can to top the podium. But you could already see in Meiringen, how extremely close the athletes are together.
These athletes send Switzerland, Germany and Austria into the race
The German Alpine Club travels almost to the Russian capital with a maximum number of people: All the athletes from the Olympic Focus Team are in the tour bus: Alma's best father, Hannah Meul (DAV Rheinland-Cologne), Jan Hojer, Alex Megos (DAV Erlangen) and Yannick Flohé (DAV Aachen). They are joined by Afra Hönig (DAV Landshut), who climbed into the semi-finals at the first Boulder World Cup this year - as did Alex Megos. Austria is in the bouldering discipline with twelve athletes and in speed climbing with eight athletes. Switzerland sends Petra Klingler, Sascha Lehmann, Sofya Yokoyama, Nils Favre, Anne-Sophie Koller, Kevin Heiniger, Benjamin Blaser and Andrea Kümin into the race.
Program 2. World Cup Moscow
Friday, 12.4.2019: Speed
- 13.00 - 16.00 Watch: Qualification Ladies and Men
- 18.00 - 19.00 Watch: Final Ladies and Gentlemen (Livestream)
Saturday, 13.4.2019: Bouldering
- 7.30 - 12.30 Watch: Women's Qualification
- 14.00 - 20.00 Watch: Men's Qualification
Sunday 14.4.2019: Bouldering
- 10.00 - 12.15 Watch: Semifinals Ladies and Gentlemen (Livestream)
- 17.45 - 19.00 am: Final Ladies (Livestream)
- 19.00 - 20.15 am: Final Men (Livestream)
That might interest you - Interview with Petra Klingler at the World Cup in Meiringen
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Credits: Image and text passages DAV, SAC and PES