Last year, Adam Ondra made the first tour of a climbing route in 9c difficulty. A murmur went through the climbing scene, as he with a small Teaser video referred to the successful ascent. In the new year, the Czech will not be long in coming with another sensation: he succeeds as the first person to flash the ascent of an 9a + route.
For some days Adam Ondra climbs in the French climbing area St. Leger. By the way, before he got there, he did the second inspection of an 9b route by Pirmin Bertle in Charmey in only three tries and evaluated the route on 9a +. Even faster he now climbed the route Super Crackinette (9a +): In the first attempt with information about the route - so flash! Up to now, nobody has ever been able to climb a route at this level of difficulty flash. "The first half of the route, I was just flying up the route. It was like I was feeling cosmically strong and that boosted my confidence a lot, ”says Adam about the first part of the route. Further up, things didn't go so smoothly: “Towards the second half of the route there were couple of moments where I felt like I was loosing my confidence a bit because there were two pockets where my fingers were just too fat to dig deeper but I still somehow made it and then I had just enough energy to do the last hard move on the very top, ”he continues.
9a onsight battle between Adam Ondra and Alexander Megos
A similar high speed in the commission of difficult routes put so far only the German Alexander Megos. on the day. He succeeded 2013 first onsight of a 9a. It was the route Estado Critico in the Spanish sport climbing area Siurana. A few months later, in July 2013, moved Adam Ondra after and climbed Cabane au Canada (9a) in the Swiss climbing area Rawyl onsight. How long will it take for Alexander Megos to climb a 9a + flash or onsight?
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Credits: Bernardo Gimenez
Hi everyone, how much I admire Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich, who with their red dot made for a sporty realignment. I miss “By fair means” very much today. We too had thrown some old things overboard and tried new ones, but no one would have thought of knocking handles, drilling holes or sticking handles like today. I also see a clamping part differently than a friend, to whom I attribute something artificial due to its handling. Why not introduce rules and guidelines that are binding for everyone? Equal rights for everyone, then you don't have to get bogged down. There will always be someone better and why do you have to drill a route from above until it fits? By fair means. Secure points yes, but without the aid of artificial aids.
@ Wolfgang: Where is the context that I can't find? Where do you make a connection to the article?
Rules and guidelines? A very nice aspect of climbing, which is certainly appreciated by many (including the toughest animals), is the fairly minimal “set of rules and guidelines” ... with a strict, comprehensive set of rules as you suggest, one would introduce something completely superfluous and on top of that harm the sport ...
And apart from that: cams are no longer ok because they are too artificial - I assume that drill hooks should then be completely abolished?