In the latest episode of his video series, Adam Ondra gives valuable tips on how to attach quickdraws and quickdraws better and faster.
1. Use rest point, then clip
Many people make the mistake of clipping immediately after they have reached the resting point. Adam recommends using the resting point first and only clipping when the forearms have recovered slightly.
2. Save time by aligning the carabiner opening
Depending on how you clip, the carabiner opening should face the climber or away. If you clip with your thumb, you should hang the carabiner in the bolt so that the opening is facing the climber. The carabiner should be hung upside down when the climber clips with his fingers. This is the fastest way to clip.
EDITOR'S NOTE: Depending on the route, it is more important to select the opening of the carabiner so that it is clipped away from the rest of the route. Otherwise, in the event of a fall, there is a risk of the rope hanging loose.
3. Clip the first carabiner faster
A very useful and probably less well known tip Adam for clipping the first carabiner in stock. Especially in difficult places on the first bolt, Adam hangs the rope through the lower karabiner of the quickdraw before he starts climbing.
When he reaches the first hook, he only has to take the carabiner off the belt and hang it in the bolt. The otherwise usual second step, attaching the rope, is eliminated, which saves valuable time.
Adam Ondra explains these and other tips and more details in episode # 86 of his video series
Complete video series "Road to Tokyo" by Adam Ondra
You can find all videos of the series "Road to Tokyo" here in the overview.
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Credits: Cover picture AO Productions