Together with the training experts Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb and the climbing doctor Volker Schöffl, we will show you three preventive exercises to prevent symptoms of overload in the shoulder joint. The first exercise focuses on shoulder stability: the sword pull.
A contribution by Patrick Matros, Dicki Korb and Volker Schöffl
This exercise prevents shoulder overload such as impingement syndrome or bursitis. It strengthens and stabilizes your shoulder, especially in the important external rotation movement.
Sword Pull: This is how the exercise works
Fasten a Thera- or Powerband approx. 15 to 20 cm above the ground at a suitable place, e.g. B. a rung band / radiator or similar. Standing in an upright position to the side of the band attachment point, imagine tucking your shoulder blades into your back pockets, feet shoulder-width apart. Now you pull the Thera-/Powerband, which is already slightly tense from the beginning, diagonally upwards, elbows first, as if you were drawing a sword. Make sure that your shoulder stays down, the distance between your shoulder and your ear does not decrease, if your elbow is so high that it could only get higher by pulling your shoulder up, you fold out your forearm. You do the whole thing in one fluid movement.
reps
10 to 20 times per side and one to two sets as a warm-up or balance after climbing training.
Note on the exercise series
This exercise collection cannot and does not want to replace a personal trainer who, through his specialist knowledge and professional screening, can recognize and treat individual patterns in a targeted manner.
However, it claims to counteract the most common and frequent injuries and symptoms of overuse that climbing sports have with well-founded analyzes and proven exercises in hundreds of cases, thus providing interested readers with a balanced and professional selection of exercises.
Train smart!
the authors
Patrick Matros
Patrick is a lecturer in sports and educational science at the State Institute in Bayreuth. He has a master's degree in sports and educational sciences and is a certified sports therapist and athletic trainer. Patrick has 20 years of climbing experience with around 200 ascents for routes between 8a and 8c.
Dicki (Ludwig) basket
Dicki is a sport climbing and functional trainer, therapist and educator. He has been a rock climber for 35 years and has 20 years of climbing training experience with many of the sport's top athletes, and co-wrote the world-renowned training book Gimme Kraft with Patrick Matros. He is also responsible for the Adidas 5.10 athletes together with Volker and Patrick.
Volker Schöffl
Volker is section head of sports orthopedics at the Bamberg Clinic, team doctor of the German climbing team and probably the best-known German "climbing doctor" at all. He is of course an ambitious climber and boulderer himself and is responsible for over 100 first ascents up to 8b/fb8a+.
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Credits: Cover picture Frank Kretschmann and Kaletsch Media