Probably the second strongest Czech visits Switzerland

At the beginning of February, the Czech Martin Stranik stayed in Switzerland for a few days. During his trip he climbed different hard boulders.

The year 2020 opened Martin Stranik with the 8c first ascent in his home country, the Czech Republic. In the Moravian Karst, he opened the boulder after five days of project planning IcebergJust two weeks later, he doubled his success with the first ascent of the roof boulder Cyclone (8b+) after.

5 boulders with a difficulty of XNUMXa+ and harder

When they arrived in Ticino, the 29-year-old didn't wait long to inspect them. Within two hours he succeeded in inspecting Casavino (8b +) in Brione. The boulder was made by Giuliano Cameroni and Nalle Hukkataival opened in 2018, On the day of Casavino's ascent, Martin Stranik also climbed the 8a classic Entwash in the second attempt.

“Brione is one of the best bouldering spots in the world. And the future belongs to Val Bavona! "

Martin Stranik raves about Ticino

On February 7th and 8th, Martin concentrated - with success - on the boulder sitting and standing start boulder Primitive, On the first day he deciphered the standing start (8b), for which he suggests 8a + as difficulty. The following day, the seat start version, which is rated 8c, also works.

“Ingenious line, heavy and powerful trains. Exactly my style! "

Martin Stranik on the inspection of the Boulder Primitivo in Val Bavona

Martin Stranik inspecting the Primitivo boulder

At the end of his stay, Martin wanted to see the most famous block in the world, Dreamtime in Cresciano, climb. While the Fred Nicole-Classic was denied, the boulder worked The Kingdom (8b+/8c) in Brione.

The Kingdom was founded in 2013 by the American Carlo Traversi It was first ascended and originally rated 8c. However, later climbers rated the boulder easier, which is why the difficulty level will be 8b+/8c.

You might be interested in - first ascent of Primitivo

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Jan Virt / IFSC

News

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.

New sole instead of a new shoe: the time to resole

The right time to get climbing shoes resoled is sooner than you might think: when there's about one millimeter of sole left. Honestly, nobody measures it, but how do I know when I should get my shoes resoled, and where can I even do that?

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.