The British Aidan Roberts succeeds in the first repetition of the boulder Alphane near Chironico, Switzerland. Roberts confirms the grade as 9A.
Three months ago we published an article entitled "We may introduce: Aidan Roberts, 9A candidate". Today changed Aidan Roberts from candidate to 9A climber. He managed to climb the Boulder Alphane Chironico.
At the end of 2021, Aidan Roberts seems to have ignited something like the turbo. Since then he has climbed the most difficult boulders such as at regular intervals Isles of Wonder Sitstart (8C+, FA), raggamuffin (8C, FA) and flashed lines like Vecchio Leone (8B). So it was only a matter of time before he climbed a boulder at the current limit, 9A.
With Burden of Dreams (9A) it was just a try
In winter 2021, the strong Brit already equipped another 9A boulder, Burden of Dreams in Lappnor, Finland, paid a visit. at the of Nalle Hukkataival Numerous climbers have already bitten their teeth off the line that was first climbed in 2016. Aidan Roberts also stuck to his teeth.
"The style of Burden of Dreams surprised me and revealed many weaknesses that I was previously able to bury under my strengths."
Aidan Roberts
First 9A boulder for Aidan Roberts
So in the case of Burden of Dreams, Aidan Roberts just had to try. One of the reasons why he couldn't plan the boulder more intensively is the remote location. Much easier to reach and in a more interesting environment is that of Shawn Raboutou on April 6, 2022 first climbed boulder alphanes at Chironico. The block is in Ticino, one of the bouldering hotspots of the international climbing elite.
And so Aidan Roberts bit his teeth into this project, fine-tuned the beta, trained on a replica version on the plastic until all the pieces of the puzzle came together.
"It was the typical attempt where everything fell into place, a moment of flow where every movement feels effortless, where time stands still."
Aidan Roberts
First confirmed 9A boulder
Alphane is one of three 9A boulders worldwide. Next to the line in Chironico there's the aforementioned Boulder Burden of Dreams by Nalle Hukkataival as well Return of the Sleepwalker of Daniel Woods. Neither Burden of Dreams nor Return of the Sleepwalker have been repeated and confirmed in their degree.
The only confirmed 9A boulder to date is Alphane. However, it must be said that the matter is about the boulder Soudain Seul somewhat complicated in Fontainebleau. The boulder was from the first ascent Simon Lorenzi Rated 9A, passed on second ascent Nico Pelorson downgraded to 8C+ to from Camille Coudert being graded 9A again on the third repetition. Soudain Seul is a shaky candidate.
Alphane, on the other hand, has now experienced its first iteration and the grade is still standing. Things get exciting as soon as the boulder is climbed a second time, which could soon be the case. Aidan Roberts projected the boulder in the last few days Will Bosi, who also made promising attempts.
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Credits: Cover picture Sam Pratt