The Grisons David von Allmen opens another test piece in the eastern Swiss boulder area murgtal: An unexpected journey (8b / +). We talked to David about the ascent and below we show the video about his unexpected journey.
How are you on the line An unexpected journey come from?
After seeing you in January Netsuke of Fred Nicole I really wanted to repeat myself Very important parrot (8b +) of Bernd Zangerl let's take a look. This is the first part of his great line Into the Sun (8c + Trad) ending with a drop-off at a stand in the middle of the wall. I am shocked then how heavy the Traversenzüge left in the Stehstart name The spotlight (8a +) are. So I decided to climb the stand start first. The wall is slightly overhanging and the line leads from wonderful ledges over a delicate heelhook to two nerve-wracking final moves in impressive heights.
Since the upper part of the wall was often wet, I looked in parallel the direct seat start in the wall closer. This was with an exit to the right of Fred Nicole first ascents. A linkup in the "spotlight" seemed possible and logical. It turned out that this seat start is not quite simple, but in itself a great boulder problem.
How many attempts have you invested in the line?
After five or six sessions, the upper part also got dry, which allowed serious attempts to climb through (in a standing start). The spotlight then threw me off a few times in the upper part before I felt so good during a warm-up go at the end of March that I simply pulled through the boulder. The standing start in itself is an amazing line, quasi the heart of this wall part and the lines that lead through the wall. But this sitting start simply didn't leave me in peace, so I was allowed to spend a few more sessions on this wall. In the session before the ascent I climbed three or four times from the seat start to the upper crux, where I repeatedly failed the difficult heel hook and thundered into the pads. But that didn't bother me any further, it was always fun. Since I could already climb the standing start, I knew that it was only a matter of time before the ascent would succeed. My attitude was to enjoy this time.
When did it finally work?
On the 6. April 2018 I was able to repeat the stand-start to warm up directly. The ease with which I succeeded was absolutely unexpected. A short time later I succeeded in the ascent of Eine unerwartete Reise (8b / +). One of the best lines I have climbed so far.
What other tours of bouldering are you particularly proud of?
I feel more joyful than proud even after inspections of special lines. Especially the slightly higher and more specialized lines are rarely a single achievement. I usually have good people with me who always have enough motivation, fun and crash pads. Without the energy of this community, everything would be more difficult and for me togetherness is an essential part of the Boulder experience. Especially first ascents I see less than personal achievement, because as a contribution to the Boulder community.
Notable contributions would be but probably first ascents like Samadhi, Tigris, Arcanum or Circus Maximus (all in Magic Wood).
Is there an area that is close to your heart?
I do not really have a favorite among the bouldering areas that I've visited so far. I appreciate them all for their very special idiosyncrasies and try to visit them regularly. The Magic Wood is clearly the area where I spend most of my time. There is hardly anyone who has spent as much time in this forest as me. Firstly, because the area can be reached quickly for me (about 30 minutes) and thus I can regularly give even after work, a session in one of my many projects. Second, because of the enormous resources of Boulder problems in all styles and difficulties. Being able to express myself as a movement artist in this unique piece of nature means a lot to me.
Recently, you often hear, perhaps true, the name "Action Wood". I have been visiting the forest for a long time now and never lost the magic to me. The magic may have changed, but it is still there. Instead of moaning about the crowd and just staying away from the fray, we try to keep the magic of locals and bring them closer to the many visitors from all over the world. In addition to the fun on bouldering I see that as a responsible task!
Video about David von Allmen in An unexpected journey in the boulder area Murgtal
About David of Allmen
David von Allmen works part-time as a software developer and spends as much time as possible in the great outdoors. He is one of the most active locals in the bouldering area Magic Wood involved. Growing up in Obersaxen in the canton of Berne, David describes himself as a citizen of the world, despite his ties to Switzerland. His origin is defined by the 35-year-old, as he says, about his attachment to nature and not to his nationality.
Bouldering guide Murgtal
Credits: Images David von Allmen