Ukrainian climber Ilya Bakhmet-Smolensky announces repetition of Fontainebleau test piece No Kpote Only. With regard to the rating, the 17-year-old is holding back, especially since he has not yet been able to climb an 8c boulder.

Illya Bakhmet-Smolensky repeats one of the most famous boulders in the world: No Kpote Only in Fontainebleau. At the time of the first ascent by barefoot climbers Charles Albert the only second 9a boulder worldwide. The first repeaters then devalued him – Ryohei Kameyama on 8c+/9a, Nico Pelorson on 8c. Regardless, No Kpote Only remains a hard-hitting, low-rep problem.

Video: Ilya Bakhmed-Smolensky in No Kpote Only

sparked controversy

The fact that Illya Bakhmet-Smolensky is coming and promptly inspecting the Fontainebleau test piece may come as a surprise to some. The young Ukrainian is not good for the first time for a surprise. We remember: On November 8th, 2018 he wrote climbing history, when he climbed 13a for the first time at the age of 9 with chromosome X.

Illya Bakhmet-Smolensky underpins his repeat of No Kpote Only with a recently released uncut video. However, his piece of evidence is not beyond doubt. On the one hand, the image detail is unfortunate, so that you can't see the climber's legs in the first sequences. On the other hand, there is a clear cut during a dynamic move. In the comment columns of the video, his inspection is therefore discussed controversially.

Image section: A compromise

Lacrux asked Ilya Bakhmed-Smolensky and confronted him with the allegations. The young Ukrainian writes that he is aware of the poor quality of the video and therefore fully understands the comments.

When asked about the image section, Ilya Bakhmed-Smolensky points out that he did not have a tripod with him on the day of the inspection. "I could have picked up either the feet, but then the whole top part would have been cut off. So I've decided to take a middle ground.” The 17-year-old goes on to say that he finds the current situation very uncomfortable and won't even try to claim the truth until he has solid evidence.

Crux with the video evidence

It's not the first time inspections have been questioned. The example of Ilya Bakhmed-Smolensky sooner or later leads to the fundamental question of whether climbers video proof of their inspections at all require. Would the discussion have arisen if he had not published his uncut video at all?

The easiest way is probably for Ilya Bakhmed-Smolensky to follow user Fedir Samoilov's advice to take the wind out of his critics' sails: "Just go there and climb it again with a better video and everyone will be happy be."

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here .

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Illya Bakhmet-Smolensky