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Editors

Nicolas Pelorson cracks 9a-Boulder No Kpote Only and devalues ​​it

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The Frenchman Nicolas Pelorson only gets the second repetition of the Boulder No Kpote Only (9a) and devalues ​​it to 8c.

Nicolas Pelorson has certainly dedicated to the heavy blocks once again. For once even a line that originally counts as one of the most difficult in the world: No Kpote Only in Fontainebleau. The boulder was made by barefoot climbers in 2019 Charles Albert opened and was only the second 9a boulder in the world. The Finn opened the first 9a boulder Nalle Hukkataival 2016 with Burden of Dreams.

Nico Pelorson on the inspection of No Kpote Only in Fontainebleau. (Photo Hugo Parmentier)

First devaluation by Ryohei Kameyama

The Japanese decoded only two months after Charles Albert's first ascent Ryohei Kameyama the moves of No Kpote Only and suggests that he would rather rate the line with 8c + / 9a. The compatriot of Charles goes one step further, Nico Pelorson, who only calls No Kpote Only a solid 8c.

With climbing shoes and the optimized beta, I find No Kpote Only a solid 8c. The line climbs super, thanks to Charles Albert for the first ascent of the boulder.

Nico Pelorson

The man of devaluations

It is not the first time that Nico has devalued a route or a boulder. About four months ago he scored the 9a route Mego's Proof in Céüse. As the name suggests, the line was created by the German professional climber Alexander Megos. first entered and rated 9a.

Nicolas Pelorson downgraded Megos Proof to 8c + and says that the line is not a 9a compared to other routes in the area.

Nico Pelorson inspecting No Kpote Only

Charles Albert at the first ascent of No Kpote Only

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Credits: Cover picture by Hugo Parmentier

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With their free ascent of "Déjà" on the south face of the Kirchlispitzen, the Austrian woman and the Italian man have completed their hardest project to date in the Rätikon. It is the first time the line has ever been repeated – and probably the first time a woman has climbed a multi-pitch route graded 8c+.
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