The strong boulderer Flo Wientjes cracks the ultra-classic of Val Bavona: Off the Wagon low (8C+). After the Munich native deciphered the standing start fairly quickly in December, he tackled the sit start version first climbed by Shawn Raboutou.
Ticino attracts strong boys and girls year after year during the winter months. Also follows the reputation of the top bouldering destination Flo Wientjes regularly. During his most recent trip, he managed to Off the Wagon low (8C+) the ultra classic in the Val Bavona.
«Everything came together last Saturday and I was able to climb one of the most iconic boulders. I'm super flashed."
Flo Wientjes
Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net Flo Wientjes climbs the Ticino ultra classic Off the Wagon low (8C+). Photo Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net
Off the Wagon low: Confidence turns into a mental struggle
Flo Wientjes put his hand on the Ticino test piece for the first time last December. Because he Off the Wagon climbed fairly quickly, he set about designing the sit-start version.
"The fact that I was able to do all the single moves and single links gave me confidence that this line is absolutely possible for me," says Wientjes.
However, conquering the 8C+ line was not that easy. From the second session he always failed because of the famous long move. And with that, a mental battle began. "Six more sessions followed, and with them new highs and near climbs."
"It was mentally really tough to climb to the far train only to fail again like the 60 times before."
Flo Wientjes
Everything fell into place last Saturday and Flo Wientjes was able to climb the line and his first 8C+ boulder. According to the 27-year-old, being able to get out of one of the most iconic boulders really impressed him.
Strong start to the year
Flo Wientjes has proven again and again in the recent past that he is one of the strongest boulderers in the world. For example with his Flash from Amandla (8B+) in the Rocklands.
But he also committed one classic after the other in his home country. These include Entlinge (8B+) in the Murg Valley, as well as Forgotten gem (8C), Dreamtime (8C) or From Dirt grows the Flower (8C) in Ticino.
With this performance curve, we are excited to see what the strong German will pull next. He will certainly not run out of projects, especially since there are still some tough bouldering projects just waiting to be climbed in the sunny part of Switzerland.
That might interest you
- 8C+ first ascent in Ticino: Yannick Flohé boulders Return of the Dreamtime
- 8C-Boulder every week: What's wrong with Drew Ruana?
- Can you climb an 8b/+ sport route "no feet"?
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Xavier Quintus, xaverquintus.net