About two weeks ago, the Swiss professional climber Cédric Lachat managed one of the most difficult multi-pitch tours in the Alps: Wogü (8c, 9 SL) in the Rätikon (LACRUX reported). We spoke to Cédric about the inspection and his film project Swissway to Heaven.
An interview with Cédric Lachat
How did you come up with the multi-pitch route Wogü in the Rätikon?
As part of the Swissway to Heaven film project, I really wanted that Rätikon demonstrate. And the Wogü route is a milestone in climbing history. Wogu Choosing as a project was a great decision. The route is the most difficult of the film project and, due to the interior designer Beat Kammerlander, also a lot to tell.
When did you start planning the route?
I started choosing and planning the film project and the routes back in 2018. Last year I started shooting and shooting the first routes. We started at the beginning of June and at the end of the month I was able to climb the route.
What was the key to success in the end? What was the biggest obstacle?
The inspection was quite complicated. It was either too hot or it rained often. The frequent one washed away the tickmarks and the route got wet and partly dirty / sandy again. Wogü is a very technical route and requires maximum precision when climbing. Good conditions are therefore fundamental. In the end I had one chance to climb in good conditions and I managed to do that. Fortunately, I didn't lose my only chance.
The ascent of Wogu I succeeded thanks to Nina. She did everything for me, I could fully concentrate on climbing, nothing else. Without Nina that would not have been possible. Now I hope that she can still score the route. Not much is missing. Unfortunately, Nina has had no luck with the weather so far.
We never lost contact. We are still great friends and the wall was like it used to be when we were a couple. We are a great team and super efficient. Nina is very efficient in big tours and rope handling.
At the same time, she also took incredible care of the film team that was on the wall with us - and that is central to the implementation of a film project. It's just great to implement such a project with her.
The Description of your film project Swissway to Heaven, on which you want to climb particularly difficult multi-pitch tours in the Swiss Alps, there was talk of climbing the Route Déjà with Fabi Buhl. Why did you change the route and the climbing partner?
I wanted Déjà do not climb. The route has no history and is much easier than Wogü. I wanted a real challenge - and Wogü gave me that. Also, I don't like the person who set up Route Déjà, we don't have the same mindset.
Regarding the climbing partner: To do a video project on such a difficult route, you need a really good friend, a good companion. Nina was the better choice for me - we have always known each other.
Another route of the film project is Odyssey am Eiger. Last year the weather put a spanner in the works. Are you coming back When?
I will certainly go back to Odyssey this year if the weather permits. And it takes patience.
Are there any other exciting projects we can look forward to this year?
I am currently concentrating on completing the Swissway to Heaven film project and the Wogü film well. After that we will see. First of all I definitely need a break. Wogü was a very difficult route for me. It's much easier to climb a 9a + than a tour like Wogü.
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Credits: Cover picture Marc Daviet