Simon Lorenzi climbs Raboutou's Alphane (9A)

The strong Belgian Simon Lorenzi secures an inspection of the 9A boulder Alphane. This makes the 25-year-old the third climber this year to repeat Shawn Raboutou's line in Chironico.

Simon Lorenzi is undisputedly one of the strongest boulderers in the world. In February 2021 he opened with Soudain Seul the only second 9A boulder in the world. A year later he doubled with the first ascent of Big Conviction (8C+) after. Before he does this fall alphanes began to project, he secured himself in Fionnay in Dave Graham's express train Foundation's Edge (8C). And now, three months later, Simon Lorenzi has also decoded Alphane and thus his second 9A boulder in his pocket.

"Alphane is my second 9A boulder: what an emotional roller coaster that was."

Simon Lorenzi
  • Simon Lorenzi Portrait
  • Simon Lorenzi hands
  • Simon Lorenzi Portrait 2

Second climber with two 9A boulders

It was already clear in September that Simon Lorenzi's chances of being able to climb Alphane in the near future are good. Despite unfavorable conditions in Ticino, the Belgian managed to climb Alphane in two stages.

Three months later, the 25-year-old managed to get through in wintry conditions. He is next to Alphane first ascent Shawn Raboutou only the second climber ever who currently has two 9A boulders on his tick list.

«Alphane's line and movements are fantastic. It's an incredible mix of power, excitement and technique."

Simon Lorenzi

We will only find out whether the evaluation of the two lines will manifest itself when further repetitions are added. Alphane has been repeated and graded three times so far. His Fontainebleau test piece Soudain Seul has so far been devalued and confirmed.


Gilles Charlier photographer

Giles Charlier
outdoor photographer &
filmmakers

Gilles Charlier is a young photographer
and filmmaker with a passion for
Cinema, as well as for adventure, sports
and nature. «I like sports videos
add new components:
an aesthetic, a story,
an emotion.

My perfectionism
drives me to my
Keep working
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make sure that
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Video: Shawn Raboutou on the first ascent of Alphane

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Credits: Cover picture Giles Charlier

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