Double dynamo for climbing: tips from the professionals

In this video, Japanese professional climber Tomoa Narasaki gives valuable tips on how to properly perform double dynamos.

Double dynamos when climbing are not an easy matter. Either you have too much or too little momentum or even catapult yourself away from the wall instead of to the next grip. In the following video, the Japanese shows what you have to look out for with double dynamos. Here is the explanation in words:

1. Make as few "starting movements" as possible. Only one, maximum two attempts are ideal. Otherwise you mess up the explosive power required for the effective go and the movement becomes unnecessarily shaky.
2. Pay attention to the ideal transition from the pulling to the pushing movement. The double dynamo isn't just about pulling and then jumping. Equally important is the pushing movement of the arms that follows the pulling movement. As soon as your hands are roughly level with your hips, you need to initiate the pushing movement. In addition, you bring your body closer to the wall through the pushing movement.
3. Focus on the foot on the lower step. If you only concentrate on the upper step, you tend to push yourself away from the wall. Ideally, you should first apply pressure with your foot on the lower step and only press with the upper foot when you are close to the wall.
4. Only really start jumping when your body is a little higher up.

The conclusion of Tomoa Narasaki: Double dynamos are not classic jumping movements, they are about getting up and then adding a little jump. And its more general Tip: The movements should be carried out as relaxed as possible, i.e. with as little use of force as possible.

Double dynamo: four tips from professional climber Tomoa Narasaki

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Credits: Cover picture Tomoa / Akiyo / Ikedai