Laura Rogora is the first woman to climb 8c+ onsight | Gorge du Loup

Within just a few days, Laura Rogora repeated four of the hardest routes in the Gorge du Loup in southern France. With Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+), the Italian also achieved the hardest onsight climb by a female climber to date.

For Laura Rogora things are going well not only on the plastic. A few weeks ago, the strong Italian won in Madrid her second lead silver medal of the season, now she climbed four of the hardest routes in the Gorges du Loup within a few days: Punt'X (9a+), Just two fix (9a/+), KinematiX (9a/+) and Trip Tik Tonik (9a).

After a flash climb on the popular Hot Chili-X (8c), the 24-year-old from Trento climbed Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+) onsight – no one had ever done this at this grade before. Rogora had already climbed alongside Chaehyun Seo and Janja Garnbret One of only three women to have climbed an 8c onsight. This year alone, the Italian has accomplished this several times.

Without a doubt my best day of climbing ever.

Laura Rogora
Laura Rogora in the Gorge du Loup (Image: Alberto di Guida)

Laura Rogora climbs classics of the Gorge du Loup

The Gorge du Loup ("Wolf's Cave") in southern France near Nice is home to a total of eight routes at French grade 9. Laura Rogora, who has already climbed several 9a routes this year, first tackled the more well-known routes Punt'X (9a+) and KinematiX (9a/+).

Punt'X has been repeated by several well-known climbers since its first ascent by Alex Chabot in 2007, including Adam Ondra, Sebastien Bouin and Jules MarchalandRogora's (impressively fast) ascent makes her the second woman, after Belgian Muriel Sarkany, to complete the route. Originally rated 9a, it has been considered a solid 2020a+ since a hold broke around 9.

Meanwhile back on the rock: Laura Rogora (Photo: Alberto di Guida)

The KinematiX route is also one of the older – though not really old – routes in the Gorge du Loup. First climbed by Andreas Bindhammer in 2001, it has since been climbed by greats such as Daniel Woods or Magnus Midtbø The tour is usually rated as 9a, but Laura Rogora gave it the slash grade 9a/+ in her assessment.

In addition to her successes on Punt'X and KinematiX, the 24-year-old still had some time to tackle a younger route in the Wolfshöhle. Just two fix (9a/+) was freed by Pierre Le Cerf in 2021. Rogora's repeat ascent is likely the first female ascent of the tour, which is one of the eight hardest routes in the area.

Quickly enjoy the last few days on the rock before getting back to training.

Laura Rogora

Plastic or rock: What’s next for Rogora?

Laura Rogora's announcement suggests that the next competitions are coming up soon. However, the Italian athlete is currently not ready for the final World Cup in Koper nor for the World Championships in Seoul reported.* However, according to media reports, she will start in Koper – and the starting lists are likely still being updated.

The statistics certainly speak for themselves: In the 2025 lead season, Laura Rogora has not missed a single race. Except for a 9th place in Chamonix She climbed in the finals every time. As recently as 2024, Rogora regularly competed in Bouldering World Cups – since the announcement separate medals at Olympics 2028 she seems to be fully concentrating on her favorite discipline, lead.

*(As of July 28.07.2025, XNUMX)

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Credits cover photo: Alberto di Guida

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