Together with the training experts Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb as well as the climbing doctor Volker Schöffl, we will show you preventative exercises that you can incorporate into your compensatory training. Today it's about hip problems. Side plank leg lifts specifically focus on the abductors of the hip joint.
A contribution by Patrick Matros, Dicki Korb and Volker Schöffl
Are hip muscles and pelvic stabilization important for climbers? It may not seem like it at first glance, but they are!
Since crazy three-dimensional bouldering moves have become more popular, hip problems have been on the rise.
The hips tend to be tense and weak pelvic stabilizers (e.g. the glutes) lead to limited mobility and back pain, which is certainly not helpful when climbing. Paying attention to your hips pays off.
Sideplank Leg Lift: This is how the exercise works
Start in a side plank position. One hand presses into the ground while the other stretches in the opposite direction towards the ceiling. Pay attention to your body tension and that your hips don't buckle. Now lift your top leg as high as possible. Hold the position for a while and then return to the starting position.
reps
5-10 seconds hold time (high-quality execution before maximum hold time) in 2 sets per side after climbing training.
Note on the exercise series
This collection of exercises cannot and does not want to replace a personal trainer who, thanks to his specialist knowledge and professional screening, can specifically recognize and treat individual patterns.
However, it claims to counteract the most common and frequent injuries and symptoms of overuse that climbing sports have with well-founded analyzes and proven exercises in hundreds of cases, thus providing interested readers with a balanced and professional selection of exercises.
Train smart!
the authors
Patrick Matros
Patrick is a lecturer in sports and educational science at the State Institute in Bayreuth. He has a master's degree in sports and educational sciences and is a certified sports therapist and athletic trainer. Patrick has 20 years of climbing experience with around 200 ascents for routes between 8a and 8c.
Dicki (Ludwig) basket
Dicki is a sport climbing and functional trainer, therapist and educator. He has been a rock climber for 35 years and has 20 years of climbing training experience with many of the sport's top athletes, and co-wrote the world-renowned training book Gimme Kraft with Patrick Matros. He is also responsible for the Adidas 5.10 athletes together with Volker and Patrick.
Volker Schöffl
Volker is section head of sports orthopedics at the Bamberg Clinic, team doctor of the German climbing team and probably the best-known German "climbing doctor" at all. He is of course an ambitious climber and boulderer himself and is responsible for over 100 first ascents up to 8b/fb8a+.
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Credits: Cover picture Frank Kretschmann and Kaletsch Media