Together with the training experts Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb and the climbing doctor Volker Schöffl, we will show you three preventive exercises to prevent symptoms of overload in the shoulder joint. The third exercise helps to stabilize and mobilize the shoulder blades: the push-up plus.
A contribution by Patrick Matros, Dicki Korb and Volker Schöffl
With this exercise, you learn to differentiate between movements of your shoulder girdle (shoulder blades) and the support loop of your body and to control them consciously. On the other hand, you get the gliding ability of your shoulder blades. This prevents one-sided overloading of other parts of the shoulder joint.
Push-up plus: This is how the exercise works
Get into a push-up position with your hands on the floor a little over shoulder width. Now lower your shoulders as far as possible without bending your arms and push them back into the starting position (scapula push-up). You repeat this five times. The sixth time, do a full push-up. Pay attention to maintaining the body tension in the trunk area (abdominal muscles tense) and the position of your elbows (pointing inwards).
reps
Do about five repetitions and make sure that you maintain correct body position (trunk, elbows) throughout the exercise. One or two sets as a warm-up or balance after climbing training
Note on the exercise series
This collection of exercises cannot and does not want to replace a personal trainer who, thanks to his specialist knowledge and professional screening, can specifically recognize and treat individual patterns.
However, it claims to counteract the most common and frequent injuries and symptoms of overuse that climbing sports have with well-founded analyzes and proven exercises in hundreds of cases, thus providing interested readers with a balanced and professional selection of exercises.
Train smart!
the authors
Patrick Matros
Patrick is a lecturer in sports and educational science at the State Institute in Bayreuth. He has a master's degree in sports and educational sciences and is a certified sports therapist and athletic trainer. Patrick has 20 years of climbing experience with around 200 ascents for routes between 8a and 8c.
Dicki (Ludwig) basket
Dicki is a sport climbing and functional trainer, therapist and educator. He has been a rock climber for 35 years and has 20 years of climbing training experience with many of the sport's top athletes, and co-wrote the world-renowned training book Gimme Kraft with Patrick Matros. He is also responsible for the Adidas 5.10 athletes together with Volker and Patrick.
Volker Schöffl
Volker is section head of sports orthopedics at the Bamberg Clinic, team doctor of the German climbing team and probably the best-known German "climbing doctor" at all. He is of course an ambitious climber and boulderer himself and is responsible for over 100 first ascents up to 8b/fb8a+.
That might interest you
- Compensation training is good – if it's done right | tips
- Improve your shoulder stability with the Sword Pull | climbing-specific compensation training
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Frank Kretschmann and Kaletsch Media