Together with the training experts Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb and the climbing doctor Volker Schöffl, we will show you three preventive exercises to prevent symptoms of overload in the shoulder joint and one to "treat" climbing-specific symptoms of overload: the golfer's elbow
A contribution by Patrick Matros, Dicki Korb and Volker Schöffl
Given the frequency with which this overload phenomenon occurs, the "golfer's elbow" should really be called the "climber's elbow". On the inside of your elbow joint is a bony prominence called the medial epicondyle that often causes problems because many climbing-specific muscles are anchored here.
If this area often hurts slightly after training, you should already start with the exercise presented here. In this case, the following applies: the sooner, the better. If you let it run or grit your teeth, this overload can accompany you for years in the worst case!
Golfer's Elbow: This is what you can do about it
This exercise is based on the level of action of leverage. You need a dumbbell for this, leaving out the weights on one side and thus having a hammer shape, you can of course also use a clubbell or a real hammer. The whole thing should not be heavier than 2 to 3 kg. Important: Never do the exercise to the point of muscular exhaustion, but choose a weight that is moderately tiring.
Sit down on a chair, take the weight by the stick, so to speak, whichever one you have chosen, the bigger the lever, the more intense the effect. Brace your elbow on your thigh and with an internal rotation (your thumb rotates outward) of your wrist, lower the weight down until your arm is fully tucked and the weight is lengthening your forearm muscle. Hold this position for 3 seconds and use your other hand to bring the weight back to the starting position.
reps
Ten to twenty times per hand, once or twice a day.
Note on the exercise series
This collection of exercises cannot and does not want to replace a personal trainer who, thanks to his specialist knowledge and professional screening, can specifically recognize and treat individual patterns.
However, it claims to counteract the most common and frequent injuries and symptoms of overuse that climbing sports have with well-founded analyzes and proven exercises in hundreds of cases, thus providing interested readers with a balanced and professional selection of exercises.
Train smart!
the authors
Patrick Matros
Patrick is a lecturer in sports and educational science at the State Institute in Bayreuth. He has a master's degree in sports and educational sciences and is a certified sports therapist and athletic trainer. Patrick has 20 years of climbing experience with around 200 ascents for routes between 8a and 8c.
Dicki (Ludwig) basket
Dicki is a sport climbing and functional trainer, therapist and educator. He has been a rock climber for 35 years and has 20 years of climbing training experience with many of the sport's top athletes, and co-wrote the world-renowned training book Gimme Kraft with Patrick Matros. He is also responsible for the Adidas 5.10 athletes together with Volker and Patrick.
Volker Schöffl
Volker is section head of sports orthopedics at the Bamberg Clinic, team doctor of the German climbing team and probably the best-known German "climbing doctor" at all. He is of course an ambitious climber and boulderer himself and is responsible for over 100 first ascents up to 8b/fb8a+.
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Credits: Cover picture Frank Kretschmann and Kaletsch Media