Repetitive practice and general technique drills are an inefficient way for advanced climbers to get better. Lattice coach Josh Hadley shows why this is the case and what role variability of movement plays in the development of adaptability in this video.
Repeatedly practicing changing feet on the same step is not very effective when it comes to improving your technique. Simple technique drills – that was once upon a time. According to Josh Hadley of Lattice Training, there's a good reason you can't simply break down movement into parts and practice separately: the way we coordinate movements.
“Movement is self-organized,” says Hadley. How we create momentum with our bodies to reach a grip that is further away is an example of how our actions are coupled with our perceptions.
The best thing about this approach to training movement and better technique is that it encourages exploration, creativity and individualism - all of which are important for climbers!
Josh Hadley, Lattice Coach
The question arises as to how climbers can better train their self-organization? Josh Hadley's answer is: Constraints-Led Approch. «The acquisition of motor skills is a non-linear approach based on the idea that each athlete is unique and develops their movement skills in a non-linear manner throughout their life.»
If you want to know more about how the Constraints-Led Approach relates to climbing practice or what concepts exist for training your technique using this approach, we highly recommend watching the video above.