Today it's all about crimping, i.e. groin balling. Two pros share their hacks when it comes to holding small ledges. They not only show you how to build finger strength, but also how to use it effectively on the rock.
There are usually several factors that prevent you from climbing stronger. Finger strength is one of them. In the video above, the American Tyler Nelson explains how you can build finger strength and which exercises can be used to transfer the newly gained strength to the wall, i.e. to translate it into better climbing performance.
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3 tips: Climb ledges better
I have little finger strength on the fingerboard, but I'm good at ledge climbing.
Maddy Cope
What the lattice trainer is getting at with this statement: pure finger strength does not necessarily mean better performance on the rock. In the video below she shows 3 clever techniques that help crimp harder:
- Squeeze with your bottom hand while pulling on the groin with your top hand
- Release the bottom foot from the wall to stabilize your position while crimping
- Consider the positioning of your hips during a pull as a separate movement
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Credits: Cover picture Tyler Nelson